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Message: <blockquote data-quote="ttocs" data-source="post: 1440593" data-attributes="member: 11896">last night I checked the wheel speed sensor in the back under the back seat where it comes in and it tested as normal at 2.4k ohms so I knew the sensor was good.  That kinda sucks as it means there is a brake or short in the circuit and with neither wire showing continuity to ground it looked like a cut wire.  That sucks as you can either trace the wires or run new ones, neither is that much fun but needs to be done.  To trace wires all you do is follow them in the harness they go in and test them ever so often.  In my case I was testing the pair for the impedance/ohms and the first place I could find them was where they ran under the back seat, towards the front of the car.  I was lucky that as soon as I cut the tape they were right on top(tan/green, brown) and the other side is the other pair that has about the same length.<img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1895/43981349404_7d039311a3_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />At this point measuring between both pairs shows 2.4k ohms which is perfect.  At this point I thought about going forward a few feet and testing them again but I like to try and get all the easy to test spots first so instead I moved up into the drivers side fender where I know they are also.  I was amazed when I poked my head in and looked, there was the end of a fairly familiar looking brown wire looking right at me.  It was hanging out of the harness and everything, almost calling to me...  Tracing wires NEVER is this easy so I figured it was just a mean trick but after testing it and the tan/green right next to it they showed 2.4k ohms!  I Found the other end of the brown wire and soldered them together and then confirmed I could measure 2.4k ohms now at the end of the harness, SUCCESS!<img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1859/44650936262_d6d77f000b_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />The abs system is able to store these codes so that we can check them later even after a problem has corrected itself.  To clear them I disconnected the battery for 10 mins, disconnected the ground I put on the abs diagnostic harness and then turned the key back on.  It was a happy happy day to see the light turn on for a second and then turn off completely.  The road test will be the real test to see if its functioning now but there are two things I will be doing first.  First I am installing a switch hidden somewhere that I can flip to put the abs in diagnostic mode to save me the time digging the harness out, finding a ground.  I have plenty of switches and with the wires I already have I can just flip a switch, turn the key and read my codes.The second part funny enough is I want a way to disable the abs for my when my line lock is being used.  After all this research now it wasn't hard, just one relay is needed.<img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1863/44700662101_58659fda56_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />If you can read my chicken scratchings in the schematic in the simplest of terms all I am doing is interrupting the ABS warning light I just installed, normally already in the dash.  By doing this the system recognizes there is a fault and shuts down.  I have also set it up so that when I do this the same abs light with light up solid to tell me that the line lock has been activated.  If your not familiar with relays the pins marked 87a and 30 are common when the relay is not activated so running the circuit through these will allow it to operate as normal with no power on the relay.  When the line lock switch is turned on, it will activate the coil which will make the contacts of 87 and 30 are common which will provide the ground portion needed to light up the light.</blockquote>