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Suspension and Brakes
Alignment with lowering springs
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<blockquote data-quote="Mustang5L5" data-source="post: 1533660" data-attributes="member: 30520"><p>There's some adjustability, but not much in the stock plates. Best chance of success is to pull the front wheels off. Put a jack under the balljoint and jack up just high enough to put weight on the jack and compress the spring a tad. Loose the two strut to spindle bolts slightly. If you push/pull the shock body in and out, you'll find that there is a small bit of adjustability in camber here. How much depends on which struts you have. Pull the strut body outwards and then tighten up both strut bolts and torque to spec.</p><p></p><p>Up top, with weight of the spring still on the jack you can drill out the two rivets that hold the factory plates to a certain position and loosen the bolts a tad and pull the camber plate outwards as far as it will go. Retighten and lower the car to the ground. See where you are and decide if you need C/C plates or not. Obviously you'll need to realign the car here after these changes, but this will give you an idea if you will able to get the camber around 1/2 degree neg to 0 degrees or if you need to call up Max Motorsports and order some C/C plates. If oyu don't want C/C plates you can install some offset camber bolts in the strut to try and give you a little more adjustability. Repeat the same process and see if that gets you close to where you need to be.</p><p></p><p>I just did Ford G springs (Eibach Pro-kit) on my convertible that only dropped about 3/4" and elected to install the MM plates. Install was pretty easy. About 30 mins per side. You do have to drill that 4th hole, but I was able to do it without fuss.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mustang5L5, post: 1533660, member: 30520"] There's some adjustability, but not much in the stock plates. Best chance of success is to pull the front wheels off. Put a jack under the balljoint and jack up just high enough to put weight on the jack and compress the spring a tad. Loose the two strut to spindle bolts slightly. If you push/pull the shock body in and out, you'll find that there is a small bit of adjustability in camber here. How much depends on which struts you have. Pull the strut body outwards and then tighten up both strut bolts and torque to spec. Up top, with weight of the spring still on the jack you can drill out the two rivets that hold the factory plates to a certain position and loosen the bolts a tad and pull the camber plate outwards as far as it will go. Retighten and lower the car to the ground. See where you are and decide if you need C/C plates or not. Obviously you'll need to realign the car here after these changes, but this will give you an idea if you will able to get the camber around 1/2 degree neg to 0 degrees or if you need to call up Max Motorsports and order some C/C plates. If oyu don't want C/C plates you can install some offset camber bolts in the strut to try and give you a little more adjustability. Repeat the same process and see if that gets you close to where you need to be. I just did Ford G springs (Eibach Pro-kit) on my convertible that only dropped about 3/4" and elected to install the MM plates. Install was pretty easy. About 30 mins per side. You do have to drill that 4th hole, but I was able to do it without fuss. [/QUOTE]
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