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Message: <blockquote data-quote="r3dn3ck" data-source="post: 1529001" data-attributes="member: 9214"><p>As the lads have alluded to, you need a specific amount of air volume in an enclosure for a sub-woofer to operate correctly. The amount of air is related to the diameter and shape of the cone, the distance the cone can travel (called excursion distance) and the bass frequency response (in layman's terms this can be thought of as the relationship between the input signal delivered to the coil and the output signal delivered by the cone). The best slim mount sub on the market for this kind of application is probably the JL Audio 13T5V2-4 which is meant to have .8 cubic feet of air in the enclosure. .8 cubic feet is a box roughly 12x12x10. That's a big-arse box. No fitting that under a seat. There are things in the world like 6" shallow mount sub-woofers which you could effectively put under a seat, the Kicker 48CWRT674 being an example, which require much less volume. It must be noted that enclosure volume affects bass response. With too small of an enclosure you lose low end responsiveness. You would not be able to have a power seat and would likely need to add some spacers under the seat mount brackets, and you may lose the ability to move the seat back and forth as much or even at all, but it could be made to work. It will need its own amp. </p><p></p><p>That's all well and good as far as physically fitting the thing and it functioning in the intended way but ignores the fact that you'd be driving the sound up the passenger's butt ithrough seat foam, which will eat some of the sound. What would work much better and probably look cool too is to do a rear seat delete and use the rear seat cushion wells with a custom fiberglass enclosure which is super easy and kinda fun to fabricate. There's plenty of volume there to drive a top quality 6 or 8 inch shallow mount sub and get great bass response.</p><h3></h3></blockquote><p></p>