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Engine Specific Tech
94-95 5.0 - Specific
AODE Issues - pulling my hair out!
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<blockquote data-quote="Super Dragpack" data-source="post: 596605" data-attributes="member: 11187"><p>Car in question is a 94 GT 5.0 Auto Convertible with 2.73:1 gears etc and only 48k miles. Its a Jap export model now in the UK.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, when I got the car it had bad clutch (TC) judder, which was fixed totally by the change to Mercon V which it now enjoys. Except an annoyingly high rear ratio it has been running fine.</p><p></p><p>My current problem started just after I removed and refitted the inlet manifold but I have checked and double checked all the connections again, but due to this, it makes me think it is an electrical issue. I have another box and TC to fit but would rather fix this problem before switching boxes and wrecking another set of clutches.</p><p></p><p>When cold it is FINE! Now problems, pulls hard, no slipping and shifts fine! After about 5-10 minutes of driving the problem starts. The symptoms are as follows:</p><p></p><p>* From standstill (in OD, D or 2) it engages 1st and 2nd at the same time. You have to lift the throttle, let it shift to 2nd and then continue pulling away in 2nd.</p><p>* It shifts up to 3rd and 4th too early at times</p><p>* Lockup unstable - works sometimes and not others</p><p>* If I use "1" on the shifter, it engages 1st and 2nd together very hard and almost locks up the drive.</p><p></p><p>So far I have changed the MLPS and checked and reset the TPS. The old MLPS was faulty (would not start in P etc) and the TPS was reading 1.17 at idle and up to around 4.71 volts at WOT. It now reads .98 nicely and sweeps the meter without any issues.</p><p></p><p>I am pulling the engine in a few weeks anyway to get the valves guides replaced and maybe some other mods, but I would like to sort this issue first.</p><p></p><p>I am a mechanic, I am happy to rebuild the box if needed (done loads in the past) or swap for a rebuild one I have sat here, but something tells me it ain't the box. </p><p></p><p>I am thinking, due to the speed the fault occurs from cold, that it is an electrical 'soak' issue or a bad connections that gets worse from the heat of the engine or exhaust etc.</p><p></p><p>Any suggestions welcome but don't just say 'its time for a rebuild'.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Super Dragpack, post: 596605, member: 11187"] Car in question is a 94 GT 5.0 Auto Convertible with 2.73:1 gears etc and only 48k miles. Its a Jap export model now in the UK. Anyway, when I got the car it had bad clutch (TC) judder, which was fixed totally by the change to Mercon V which it now enjoys. Except an annoyingly high rear ratio it has been running fine. My current problem started just after I removed and refitted the inlet manifold but I have checked and double checked all the connections again, but due to this, it makes me think it is an electrical issue. I have another box and TC to fit but would rather fix this problem before switching boxes and wrecking another set of clutches. When cold it is FINE! Now problems, pulls hard, no slipping and shifts fine! After about 5-10 minutes of driving the problem starts. The symptoms are as follows: * From standstill (in OD, D or 2) it engages 1st and 2nd at the same time. You have to lift the throttle, let it shift to 2nd and then continue pulling away in 2nd. * It shifts up to 3rd and 4th too early at times * Lockup unstable - works sometimes and not others * If I use "1" on the shifter, it engages 1st and 2nd together very hard and almost locks up the drive. So far I have changed the MLPS and checked and reset the TPS. The old MLPS was faulty (would not start in P etc) and the TPS was reading 1.17 at idle and up to around 4.71 volts at WOT. It now reads .98 nicely and sweeps the meter without any issues. I am pulling the engine in a few weeks anyway to get the valves guides replaced and maybe some other mods, but I would like to sort this issue first. I am a mechanic, I am happy to rebuild the box if needed (done loads in the past) or swap for a rebuild one I have sat here, but something tells me it ain't the box. I am thinking, due to the speed the fault occurs from cold, that it is an electrical 'soak' issue or a bad connections that gets worse from the heat of the engine or exhaust etc. Any suggestions welcome but don't just say 'its time for a rebuild'. [/QUOTE]
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