Reply to thread

Message: <blockquote data-quote="cobrajeff96" data-source="post: 1528842" data-attributes="member: 29141">I personally would never run thick +/- cables inside the cabin but that's just me. Like I said in my first reply, there's more than one way to slice the pie here. No one's wrong... unless their car catches fire from a lazy design. And there are actually good reasons for at least some portion of the cables to be ran inside the car, such as certain sanctioning bodies requiring a master disconnect within easy reach so that track staff can reach inside your window and kill your car. Some require it on the outside of the car, near the trunk. Just depends on the event class, etc. These days, if you got a little extra coin, you can run a low-voltage disconnect which'll essentially just be a type of relay inside the car that lets you safely kill the power source and not have it directly inline with huge current - saves space for sure because no need to have the big cables inside the cabin.Me, personally my car will likely never see any sanctioned track. It's not my thing, at least with this car. The downside to running cables inside the car is increased footprint, complex obstacle routing, fumes/outgassing when the cable is still new, sharp unfinished edges, etc.Zip ties while fine are not ideal, whether it's inside or outside the car, but if they are thick enough then they will suffice. Cushioned clamps (or Adel Clamps as they are called) are ideal. Hellerman-Tyton also makes some excellent cable/hose anchors and I use a few of them on the car.</blockquote>