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Message: <blockquote data-quote="cobrajeff96" data-source="post: 1528854" data-attributes="member: 29141">With this, there's again more than one way to slice the pie. Realistically for a street car that doesn't experience routine abuse, no fuse link is necessary. If the wire is sufficiently separated from impact zones, heat sources, and moving parts, just run it like factory and save yourself time/money/headache. If any of those things start to become concerns, then start thinking about different ways to overcome them. Example, if trunk cable (heavy gauge direct to battery) lies in an area that is potentially shorted even with a light impact with another car or something stationary, then fuse it close to the battery as possible.You can get pretty exotic with this or keep it simple. Simplest is just a bolt-down Mega fuse or something like that. When current exceeds the fuse rating, it breaks and you install a new fuse. A breaker is a mechanical means of resetting the link when broken, so it's easier in the long term and also nice for testing/troubleshooting because you can lock-out the power at any time. Then there's solid state:  no moving parts, it's more like an integrated circuit and some of them can handle big juice. They can even be programmed for time-delay on/off functions depending on what you're needing. I've got a 270A SS relay in my car solely for the Coyote swap electronics and also it acts as an anti-theft module the way I have it set up. It'll handle big surges or voltage drops if anything unforeseen happens, and it'll literally last forever because of no moving parts to wear out.In my opinion, stick with the bolt-down fuse. If you decide to throw money at the car, skip the breaker and go straight to a SS relay. You either go full retard or you don't, in my view.</blockquote>