Reply to thread

Message: <blockquote data-quote="cobrajeff96" data-source="post: 1534416" data-attributes="member: 29141">No diagram for mine, and not really all that necessary either. You only need a fat lead going from back to front of car. You can terminate the front end side of it where the factory originals all connect to, which I believe is on the fuse box (but I could be wrong it's been so long since anything on my car has been OEM). As long as all the positives tie together at some distribution point, it's really all that matters. Even then, you don't need a "star" distribution point (you can have the big (+) lead in series). For instance, a lot of people going direct from battery to starter, then off of that to the alternator, then finally to the OEM fuse box. I went down a much different path due to space contraints and other electrical 'breakout' requirements I inadvertently made for myself along the way.And if you're not changing the output of the alternator, you don't even need to change gauges of any other wires, just keep them all the same. That's because the big-A 1/0 (or greater) cable you'd be adding is the same thing as the battery being up front where it originally was. But do make sure that the (-) post of the trunk battery anchors to something really meaty, like frame rail or shock tower. Don't go into thin gauge sheet metal. The ground is just as important as the positive cable, both in terms of cable cross section and where it's ultimately chosen to be mounted.</blockquote>