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Exterior and Interior
Can't bleed convertible top lines
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<blockquote data-quote="Rich" data-source="post: 1491276" data-attributes="member: 25830"><p>So as the title states, I have been unable to get the top in my '04 convertible to retract or extend from the completely up or completely down position. I've gone through over $1,000 in replacement parts because I keep stripping cylinders or messing up the lines. I've cracked the lines at the cylinder to bleed air out, I've used Teflon tape on the threads and not used them (I know they're compression fittings), I've changed the o-rings, I've used different fluids. I have watched every video I can find and they all make it look so easy but I can't seem to figure it out. The lines are clear which allow me to see the air pockets and they always pop up when the top either fully reaches the top or the bottom.</p><p></p><p>The only thing I've had a mechanic do to my car is I had Griggs Racing weld in their sub-frame connectors, other than that I've managed to do all of the work on my car myself, which includes tearing the engine bay apart to paint, replacing the rear gears, routing the battery to the trunk replacing exhaust, removing a/c, swapping steering shaft, etc., but this top issue has got me completely stumped.</p><p></p><p>The only thing I can think of that is creating issues is when I replaced the top, I created some kind of binding issue where the pump isn't strong enough to overcome, but I'm able to lift it and lower it myself without much issue so I find it difficult to believe that's it and that shouldn't cause air bubbles. Any help would be appreciated before I buckle and take it into someone.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rich, post: 1491276, member: 25830"] So as the title states, I have been unable to get the top in my '04 convertible to retract or extend from the completely up or completely down position. I've gone through over $1,000 in replacement parts because I keep stripping cylinders or messing up the lines. I've cracked the lines at the cylinder to bleed air out, I've used Teflon tape on the threads and not used them (I know they're compression fittings), I've changed the o-rings, I've used different fluids. I have watched every video I can find and they all make it look so easy but I can't seem to figure it out. The lines are clear which allow me to see the air pockets and they always pop up when the top either fully reaches the top or the bottom. The only thing I've had a mechanic do to my car is I had Griggs Racing weld in their sub-frame connectors, other than that I've managed to do all of the work on my car myself, which includes tearing the engine bay apart to paint, replacing the rear gears, routing the battery to the trunk replacing exhaust, removing a/c, swapping steering shaft, etc., but this top issue has got me completely stumped. The only thing I can think of that is creating issues is when I replaced the top, I created some kind of binding issue where the pump isn't strong enough to overcome, but I'm able to lift it and lower it myself without much issue so I find it difficult to believe that's it and that shouldn't cause air bubbles. Any help would be appreciated before I buckle and take it into someone. [/QUOTE]
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Can't bleed convertible top lines
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