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Clutch cable broke…
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<blockquote data-quote="cobrajeff96" data-source="post: 1509273" data-attributes="member: 29141"><p>It's an easy thing to do. First time doing it might seem a bit hard but really it's not.</p><p></p><p>I'd say instead of only replacing the cable, try also to replace the plastic clutch quadrant and get a firewall adjuster screw. It's only a matter of time before the factory pedal quadrant's teeth shear right off and leave you stranded (again). Really any of the firewall adjuster screws are good, but try to get one with the internal ball bearing that clicks instead of one that freely spins.</p><p></p><p>Just make sure that when everything's back together, the throwout has a slight amount of preload onto the pressure plate. It's needs to be touching the pressure plate fingers at all times. Get a new pivot ball stud.</p><p></p><p>Might as well replace the TOB, they're cheap. If you replace the clutch/flywheel, replace the crank pilot bearing.</p><p></p><p>Any time a new TOB is installed, the teardrop end of it faces towards the bellhousing inspection cover, away from the input shaft.</p><p></p><p>Use high temp red grease on the following areas:</p><p></p><p>- Face of throwout bearing (a very light film)</p><p>- Splines of the input shaft (a very light film)</p><p>- The pivot stud inside the bellhousing (generous amount)</p><p>- The input shaft guide tube that the TOB rides on (a light film)</p><p>- The backside of the fork lever where the TOB sits in (a generous amount)</p><p>- The bevled hole in the fork lever that the cable end sits in (a generous amount)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cobrajeff96, post: 1509273, member: 29141"] It's an easy thing to do. First time doing it might seem a bit hard but really it's not. I'd say instead of only replacing the cable, try also to replace the plastic clutch quadrant and get a firewall adjuster screw. It's only a matter of time before the factory pedal quadrant's teeth shear right off and leave you stranded (again). Really any of the firewall adjuster screws are good, but try to get one with the internal ball bearing that clicks instead of one that freely spins. Just make sure that when everything's back together, the throwout has a slight amount of preload onto the pressure plate. It's needs to be touching the pressure plate fingers at all times. Get a new pivot ball stud. Might as well replace the TOB, they're cheap. If you replace the clutch/flywheel, replace the crank pilot bearing. Any time a new TOB is installed, the teardrop end of it faces towards the bellhousing inspection cover, away from the input shaft. Use high temp red grease on the following areas: - Face of throwout bearing (a very light film) - Splines of the input shaft (a very light film) - The pivot stud inside the bellhousing (generous amount) - The input shaft guide tube that the TOB rides on (a light film) - The backside of the fork lever where the TOB sits in (a generous amount) - The bevled hole in the fork lever that the cable end sits in (a generous amount) [/QUOTE]
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Clutch cable broke…
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