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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Terrorist 5.0" data-source="post: 1559483" data-attributes="member: 30689">Hi everyone, more of a continuation from my last post on the matter. Replaced the clutch in my 95 GT. All is well except for a slight vibration in the clutch pedal and a rattling throw out bearing. The fork shakes a little too. This is not all the time though. Intermittently, if I let the clutch out fast, the pedal is pretty smooth and no more rattle from the throw out bearing. This confused me. I couldn't find a conclusive answer on any forums, and anybody I knew, so I figured I'm on my own for figuring the issue out. Upon watching a couple videos, I noticed something a little different on everyone else's transmission. The pivot stud screwed straight into the bellhousing. I had a lock washer, probably about a millimeter thick, on mine. I figured that is how they came from the factory so I put it under my new pivot stud. I understand this can throw off the geometry of the clutch.Using this, my only explanation for this issue is the bearing is having a hard time self centering (possibly maxing its range out) and is shifting around in the clutch fork to maintain center due to the possibly bad geometry. Also, moving the clutch in or out at high RPM's makes a slight hollow grinding noise (I say grinding but it is actually a smooth tone, difficult to describe). I can only imagine this is the bearing retainer being loaded from the bearing pushing on it harder than it should, also due to the possibly bad geometry. This is more of a far fetched one since without the cable on, the fork moves pretty smoothly, and without resistance.Now, I am not a professional in setting up cable clutches, but I have a couple questions. I have already decided I am going to tear the transmission and bellhousing back out to fix this, but as I prepare to do so, I wanna know: is this logic reasonable? Is having the pivot stud out too far a reason for the symptoms I am facing? Secondly, if the new rotating assembly of the clutch measures differently than the stock setup, how would one figure out proper geometry? If there is a proper way with measurements I would be down to try, but if there is a simpler way, that would be nice. How is it supposed to be? I imagine the fork should be exactly perpendicular to the pressure plate when the pedal is out, but please correct me if I am wrong.I will be buying a new throw out bearing, clutch fork, bearing retainer, and for the heck of it, a pivot stud. I imagine all these parts (minus the pivot stud) have been subjected to a lot of unnecessary wear from driving like this for the past month and a half. I don't want to have to pull the transmission out anytime soon as I live in an apartment, and apartments have rules. I'm just bending and contorting those rules to a point that I could make a yoga instructor jealous, but I would prefer to stay out of trouble. Thank you everyone.</blockquote>