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Drivetrain
Clutch Fork Geometry Question
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<blockquote data-quote="weendoggy" data-source="post: 1560073" data-attributes="member: 23340"><p>The only thing that stands out here is the picture of the input shaft sleeve. It looks like it has a slight ridge to it, which can cause TO hang-up, so maybe time to replace that. The ball doesn't look bad and I'm guessing that's grease on the end. If so, good. The fork looks o.k. and just make sure the spring is in the "valley" of the TO and not behind it. See attached pics I took when I did a persons clutch/trans job. You can see where the fork spring is "behind" the TO which is incorrect. The ball height from the "ball end" to the imaginary surface of the bell housing is pretty much the same at 3.650" give or take. You can use the straight edge method shown in my video for reference. I also removed the weight on the clutch fork when I installed my TKX. Not worried about the rear skew of the fork as long as dimensions are good and the TO bearing is riding the forks.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="weendoggy, post: 1560073, member: 23340"] The only thing that stands out here is the picture of the input shaft sleeve. It looks like it has a slight ridge to it, which can cause TO hang-up, so maybe time to replace that. The ball doesn't look bad and I'm guessing that's grease on the end. If so, good. The fork looks o.k. and just make sure the spring is in the "valley" of the TO and not behind it. See attached pics I took when I did a persons clutch/trans job. You can see where the fork spring is "behind" the TO which is incorrect. The ball height from the "ball end" to the imaginary surface of the bell housing is pretty much the same at 3.650" give or take. You can use the straight edge method shown in my video for reference. I also removed the weight on the clutch fork when I installed my TKX. Not worried about the rear skew of the fork as long as dimensions are good and the TO bearing is riding the forks. [/QUOTE]
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