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Drivetrain
Clutch Fork Geometry Question
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<blockquote data-quote="cobrajeff96" data-source="post: 1560088" data-attributes="member: 29141"><p>Just some general pointers that served me well back when I used cables...</p><p></p><p>The fork needs to be right in the middle of the inspection window, with 5lbs preload give or take (a good reason to have a firewall adjuster).</p><p></p><p>There should be high temp red grease on the following contact points:</p><p>-Bearing to fork tongs (moderate)</p><p>-Bearing face to pressure plate fingers (very light)</p><p>-Pivot ball to fork (heavy)</p><p>-Input shaft tube (light to moderate)</p><p>-Input shaft splines (light)</p><p>-Cable end to fork (moderate)</p><p></p><p>Do make sure the inside of the bell and just everything in general is reasonably clean before greasing.</p><p></p><p>I've never had a queaky or rattling TOB until many tens of thousands of miles or basically right before it was about to pop.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cobrajeff96, post: 1560088, member: 29141"] Just some general pointers that served me well back when I used cables... The fork needs to be right in the middle of the inspection window, with 5lbs preload give or take (a good reason to have a firewall adjuster). There should be high temp red grease on the following contact points: -Bearing to fork tongs (moderate) -Bearing face to pressure plate fingers (very light) -Pivot ball to fork (heavy) -Input shaft tube (light to moderate) -Input shaft splines (light) -Cable end to fork (moderate) Do make sure the inside of the bell and just everything in general is reasonably clean before greasing. I've never had a queaky or rattling TOB until many tens of thousands of miles or basically right before it was about to pop. [/QUOTE]
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Clutch Fork Geometry Question
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