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<blockquote data-quote="shovel" data-source="post: 1588146" data-attributes="member: 29855"><p>As for the hydraulics, the factory SN95 high pressure hose does thread into the Volvo pump, I don't know if it would seal but it threads in - however there is not really any clean way to use the hose because of its length and the shape of the rigid end. </p><p></p><p>I opted to order a set of 6AN fittings for the rack -</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]49955[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>and a similar 6AN fitting for the high pressure port of the pump. Then I'll figure out how long the hoses need to be and if they need 90 or 45 degree ends. To be determined.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Electrically - it requires a lot of current. In the Volvo it was designed for the pump is commanded by the powertrain control module to run at different levels of boost so it draws as little as 15A and as much as 80A supposedly - but in our application there's not a simple way to tie it in to the vehicle speed sensor. Instead there are two options - either connect it straight to switched power and it runs in a fixed fail-safe mode supposedly around 70% max, drawing around 40-50A continuously or else connect it to a 3rd party control box with a knob and you can use the knob to dial in your preferred level of assist.</p><p></p><p>The controllers are about $60. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]49956[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Because of the high current draw I wanted to make sure it would only run while the engine is actually running, turning the alternator. So I added an extra oil pressure switch that will complete a circuit only while the engine is generating oil pressure. </p><p></p><p>I have NOT completed the electrical hook-up yet because the pump needs power steering fluid in it first, it can be damaged by running dry. I'll post more once I have the install finished and can share what I learned in the process. </p><p></p><p>Another detail to mention is the bracket and pulley routing. I have deleted the secondary air pump and I am also converting to electric air conditioning. I've also relocated the alternator to a low position where the secondary air (smog) pump previously was located.</p><p></p><p>With the power steering pump + A/C compressor bracket removed there is nowhere to mount the ignition coil and also the belt does not wrap around the water pump very well.</p><p></p><p>This bracket from Speed Doctor relocates the alternator to a low position and adds an idler pulley. This allows a physically larger alternator to be used & avoid clearance problems with the valve covers on a 94/95. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]49957[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Unfortunately this results in very little wrap around the water pump and I don't trust it to turn the pump without slipping under all loads and temperatures and conditions. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]49958[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>So as a solution I cut down the old power steering pump bracket: </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]49959[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>This provides the place to mount the ignition coil (OE or aftermarket) and an idler pulley. The OE pulley is smooth (back of belt drive) but can be swapped out for a 6 rib idler. The axle bolt is right-handed so if the bearing seizes it might unscrew itself but you already got problems if that happens. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]49960[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]49961[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shovel, post: 1588146, member: 29855"] As for the hydraulics, the factory SN95 high pressure hose does thread into the Volvo pump, I don't know if it would seal but it threads in - however there is not really any clean way to use the hose because of its length and the shape of the rigid end. I opted to order a set of 6AN fittings for the rack - [ATTACH type="full"]49955[/ATTACH] and a similar 6AN fitting for the high pressure port of the pump. Then I'll figure out how long the hoses need to be and if they need 90 or 45 degree ends. To be determined. Electrically - it requires a lot of current. In the Volvo it was designed for the pump is commanded by the powertrain control module to run at different levels of boost so it draws as little as 15A and as much as 80A supposedly - but in our application there's not a simple way to tie it in to the vehicle speed sensor. Instead there are two options - either connect it straight to switched power and it runs in a fixed fail-safe mode supposedly around 70% max, drawing around 40-50A continuously or else connect it to a 3rd party control box with a knob and you can use the knob to dial in your preferred level of assist. The controllers are about $60. [ATTACH type="full"]49956[/ATTACH] Because of the high current draw I wanted to make sure it would only run while the engine is actually running, turning the alternator. So I added an extra oil pressure switch that will complete a circuit only while the engine is generating oil pressure. I have NOT completed the electrical hook-up yet because the pump needs power steering fluid in it first, it can be damaged by running dry. I'll post more once I have the install finished and can share what I learned in the process. Another detail to mention is the bracket and pulley routing. I have deleted the secondary air pump and I am also converting to electric air conditioning. I've also relocated the alternator to a low position where the secondary air (smog) pump previously was located. With the power steering pump + A/C compressor bracket removed there is nowhere to mount the ignition coil and also the belt does not wrap around the water pump very well. This bracket from Speed Doctor relocates the alternator to a low position and adds an idler pulley. This allows a physically larger alternator to be used & avoid clearance problems with the valve covers on a 94/95. [ATTACH type="full" width="498px"]49957[/ATTACH] Unfortunately this results in very little wrap around the water pump and I don't trust it to turn the pump without slipping under all loads and temperatures and conditions. [ATTACH type="full" width="719px"]49958[/ATTACH] So as a solution I cut down the old power steering pump bracket: [ATTACH type="full"]49959[/ATTACH] This provides the place to mount the ignition coil (OE or aftermarket) and an idler pulley. The OE pulley is smooth (back of belt drive) but can be swapped out for a 6 rib idler. The axle bolt is right-handed so if the bearing seizes it might unscrew itself but you already got problems if that happens. [ATTACH type="full" width="933px"]49960[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]49961[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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