Reply to thread

Message: <blockquote data-quote="ForeverDriven" data-source="post: 1483050" data-attributes="member: 23685">Alright! Some may remember me from last fall when I made a similar post about my '97 Coyote Swap. Well, issues have persisted and I'm here again for more help!Here is a video (it is a safe google drive link) <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xSwJHflu91LYOqFGtR4Rh5FnCJwusGHi/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xSwJHflu91LYOqFGtR4Rh5FnCJwusGHi/view?usp=sharing</a>Problems:Takes multiple key cycles to reach full fuel pressurePressure starts tweaking (like in the video), while gradually decreasing until the car dies.I went from a 255lph DW Pump to a 340 LPH Aeromotive stealth because I thought the pump was the issue, also I was still having cutoff problems so why not upgrade. I did it as professionally as I could this time. Wires are soldered and heat shrunk. I swabbed the tank of any possible debris (there was an old filler neck grommet in there? lol), and the fuel filter is still as new as when I bought the DW pump since it didn't run for long.There are a few possible issues I can think of:-The wiring at the relay is all crimped female-male connections. Maybe the power doesn't go through them well enough. Will try soldering them soon.-I fucked something up in the control pack fuse box (I ran the old pump without a relay for a bit because I've been learning as I go, so I do some dumb shit sometimes)-Wire gauge isn't big enough going to relay, but the main power wire is 12ish gauge (running off of the fuse box) and the relay receives signal from the control pack's fuel pump wire which I believe is 14 gauge. It is also wired to run through the inertia switch too so I don't blow up in an accident.Any input would be appreciated, guys!</blockquote>