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Message: <blockquote data-quote="NXcoupe" data-source="post: 623432" data-attributes="member: 11751">Yes, never use a stock bore that has more than a couple hundred miles on it. I have rebuilt engines for a living, and never have I pulled a stock engine apart and run a dial bore gauge through it and said, wow, that's still perfect! Never. The factory didn't used to use a torque plate on their engines when honing. A torque plate simulates the distortion that the block experiences when a cylinder head is torqued down onto it. Pre distorting it will allow you to hone it round. then when the torque plate is removed, they cylinder is now distorted but will be round again when the head is torqued onto it. I have my own aluminum torque plates for the engines I rebuild and build for customers.I will give you guys some tips, that most have to pay for, use it or ignore it as you please. Have your block align honed first, then have it decked, that square's the decks with the centerline of the crank so all the cylinders have equal compression as long as the combustion chambers are equal. Then have it bored and then torque plate honed to within .0005 of your target. This is what most general automotive machine shops go to, race engines are much closer tolerances than that.  If you are going all motor, then go with the largest cubes, I recommend the Probe 347 street fighter series, their 5.315 rod length keeps the pin out of the oil ring groove. Those are the pistons and rod length I used in my 600 rwhp vert that is in the builds section.  Hope this helps.</blockquote>