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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Nater" data-source="post: 393709" data-attributes="member: 8549">Hey guys, it was easier than I thought....Going off the Chilton's wiring schematic, I was able to get it to work....Don't have any pics, but it was fairly straight forward. I HAVE NOT STARTED THE CAR USING THE NEW SWITCHES BECAUSE IT IS STILL PRETTY MUCH APART DUE TO A TRANSMISSION SWAP. IF I HAVE TO CHANGE SOMETHING IN HERE I WILL.Here it goes.....*****NOTE NOT ALL MODELS AND YEARS WILL USE THE SAME WIRE COLOR CODING! THIS GUIDE WAS BASED OFF A 1997 GT CONVERTIBLE******1. VERY IMPORTANT!!!! DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING!!!!2.The first thing you will need do is remove the plastic kick panel and lower cover for the steering colum. This will make it easier to work around.3. I already had my driver's seat removed, so it was a little easier for me, but you will need to lay on you back unless you are really good contortionist. 4. The ignition control is bolted to the middle part of the steering colum. It is held up by to Torx style screws. With the key in the "ON" postion remove those two bolts. This will allow the entire connector to move around, which is easier to get to the correct wire.5. Here is where you can choose to what you want to do....With mine, even if you have the key in the "ON" position it will not mean that you can just push the start button and the car will run. I have a little "saftey" switch wired between the push button start. You need to flip that switch first before the push button becomes "hot". The way this was accomplished was finding a wire on the ignition that was hot only when the key was in the on postion, and splicing another wire into that. This happened to be a brown/pink wire. From there I ran the new wire to the safety switch, and from the safety switch to one terminal on the push button. Now go back to the ignition harness and find the White/Pink wire. That was the only wire on the entire harness that I found became hot only when the key was turned to the start postion.... Double checking that against the Chilton's, i am believing that that is the correct one. Since I did not want to use the key any more to start the car, I cut the wire with enough room that if I wanted to return it to stock I could using butt connectors....I ran a new wire going from the push button to the white/pink wire.6. Since the car is still in the middle of a transmission swap this is all based off of me testing with the ground on the started unplugged. To test if the new setup worked or not I hooked the battery back up, turned the key to the on postion and had a friend under the car with a continuity tester. I then tried to start the car with the key and no light on the tester....Good.....Next tried the push button start, and voila....the light on the tester came on....To double check, I turned off the saftey switch, and pushed the button....no light....turned the switch back on and....light....So I am fairly confident that the push button will work.Hope this helps guys....</blockquote>