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Electrical & Stereo
Engine Swap/ECU Removal Electrical Issue
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<blockquote data-quote="JHuck" data-source="post: 1583462" data-attributes="member: 38171"><p>Hello,</p><p></p><p>I’m a new member/longtime lurker who could use some assistance with my build.</p><p></p><p>My build started as a 1999 base model. Starting in early 2025, I built a 408W with Promaxx Project X heads, Bullett Racing cam (232/240, 112 sep), Vic Jr, Super Sniper, full length BBK Fox swap headers, Tremec TKX, and full MM suspension front/rear. I swapped in a DW300M in-tank pump, kept the 5/16 fuel line, added an AEM regulator and plumbed in a 6AN return line with a tank bulkhead fitting. I deleted the sound system, rear seat, and moved the battery to the trunk. I have a heavy gauge cable running to the engine and the negative cable runs to a chassis stud that I welded in.</p><p></p><p>I removed the PCM, associated wiring harness, and the CCRM. The Sniper can handle the fan, AC, and fuel pump.</p><p></p><p>My current situation relates to the fuel pump/overall power supply. My trunk light, interior light and door chime came on when I connected the battery which I took as a good first sign. When trying to power the fuel pump directly via pin 6 (positive) and pin 7 (negative) in the pump harness, I kept popping an in-line fuse when I touched the positive lead to pin 6. When I disconnected the negative cable from the trunk chassis stud and connected a battery negative lead to pin 7 of the fuel pump harness, the trunk light came back on and the fuel pump ran slowly. This is with no positive connection to pin 6. This has me scratching my head. It appears the pump and lights are picking up a small amount of positive current from the chassis. Any thoughts on this? The draw between my battery cable and the power distribution box is 1.4 amp.</p><p></p><p>I checked my positive cable and other wires for insulation issues. None found.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JHuck, post: 1583462, member: 38171"] Hello, I’m a new member/longtime lurker who could use some assistance with my build. My build started as a 1999 base model. Starting in early 2025, I built a 408W with Promaxx Project X heads, Bullett Racing cam (232/240, 112 sep), Vic Jr, Super Sniper, full length BBK Fox swap headers, Tremec TKX, and full MM suspension front/rear. I swapped in a DW300M in-tank pump, kept the 5/16 fuel line, added an AEM regulator and plumbed in a 6AN return line with a tank bulkhead fitting. I deleted the sound system, rear seat, and moved the battery to the trunk. I have a heavy gauge cable running to the engine and the negative cable runs to a chassis stud that I welded in. I removed the PCM, associated wiring harness, and the CCRM. The Sniper can handle the fan, AC, and fuel pump. My current situation relates to the fuel pump/overall power supply. My trunk light, interior light and door chime came on when I connected the battery which I took as a good first sign. When trying to power the fuel pump directly via pin 6 (positive) and pin 7 (negative) in the pump harness, I kept popping an in-line fuse when I touched the positive lead to pin 6. When I disconnected the negative cable from the trunk chassis stud and connected a battery negative lead to pin 7 of the fuel pump harness, the trunk light came back on and the fuel pump ran slowly. This is with no positive connection to pin 6. This has me scratching my head. It appears the pump and lights are picking up a small amount of positive current from the chassis. Any thoughts on this? The draw between my battery cable and the power distribution box is 1.4 amp. I checked my positive cable and other wires for insulation issues. None found. [/QUOTE]
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