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Message: <blockquote data-quote="extreme_21" data-source="post: 905953" data-attributes="member: 9565">Yah if the test comes back negative, that would indicate no leaks of combustion into the coolant. That said, I'd shoot towards left over gunk from the coolant flush. You could always remove the overflow bottle and clean it out(and visually check in your hands what this gunk is, I'd also clean out the overflow tube from the rad cap to the overflow bottle just incase it's clogged from the gunk that was left over..originally the hose is not secured just pushed on so "make sure you secure the hose with hose clamps",  slight leak of that hose will cause overheating and coolant loss!! Had the hose leak for me and traced the fault for couple hours till I saw it bubbling.Like the last person just posted, you could also have air in the system, by doing a vacuum bleed of the cooling system, this will assure all air is out(it's a tool/kit you can get to bleed the system). If there is air in the system, vehicle will have a poor cooling system..overheating at times or all the time..no heat from dash vents...etcFor the water pump to be bad, usually the pump will start to leak from the seep hole indicating the bearing/seal is failing and leaks the coolant through the seal/bearing and out the seep hole.For the O2's, there not hard to access, I'd swap the O2's and see if the fault travels with the sensor to the opposite bank. For P0172, don't jump to the sensor at fault..could even be something like a blocked pcv or catalyst making the mixture rich</blockquote>