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Message: <blockquote data-quote="reivaxtorres" data-source="post: 194559" data-attributes="member: 8890">if you are still interested, i got done with the swap last night <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin    :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" />power mods before the swap:k&n intake, 75mm t/b, 75mm plennum, PI intake, PI cams, NGK Iridium Plugs, Nology Hotwire spark plugs, MSD coil packs, u/d pullies, frpp k/c clutch, aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, catted x pipes, 3.55 gears (out of 04 cobra), 190lph fuel pump.added this weekend: PI heads, lokar dipstick tube( :rant: ).truth be told, since i already had the PI intake and cams, i really wasnt expecting to get much power out of the heads, expecially since they were 100% stock of an 03gt. since i got them for pretty cheap, i figured id might aswell go for it. the swap went really smooth with very, very few hiccups. hiccup #1: you need an air gun to remove the crank pulley. tried doing it a few different ways, but wasnt able to get it loose. friend came by with his air compressor and we got it loose. use the air compressor to put it back on at the end as well. hiccup #2: everyone says to drain the coolant, so i drained the coolant from the radiator and i unplugged the lower radiator hose figuring that would be enough (also removed the coolant tank, fan, and radiator to get a little more work room for the front accessories). well i was wrong. no one said to drain the block of coolant (apparently there is a drain plug on the passanger side of the block) or how, so i got a nice surprise when i tried to remove the heads, and got a nice bath of coolant all over my pants, on the floor, and in the cylinders. blah. cleaned up easy enough tho.hiccup #3: the head bolts are a little tricky to remove since about 6 of them (2 on passanger side, 4 on drivers side) dont have enough room to come out of the head all the way, but they do clear the block enough to be able to twist the heads away from the block. hiccup #4: and the biggest hiccup of all was that i forgot to put the new dipstick tube into the engine when i should have. its supposed to be installed at the same time the heads are installed, and we completely forgot until after the heads were torqued down and timed and everything. so i had to buy the flexible lokar dipstick off of summit, and had to wait a few days to finish the project because of this mistake. the new dipstick tube that came with the FRPP headswap kit didnt work either, and we bent that one to hell. the stock one broke on its way out anywho, back to the headswap results. fired it up last night and topped off all the fluids and made sure i wasnt burning oil (was smoking up a lot because you have to oil the cylinders before you put the heads back on, 1 cap full of oil per cylinder). then i took it for a quick test drive around the block to make sure there were no noises or anything, rechecked fluids, and took it on the freeway. like i said, i honestly didnt expect any difference, but wow, there sure is. even with the PI cams and intake, my car seemed to be out of breath by about 5-5.5k rpms, and you begin to notice it more in the higher gears. now my car just keeps climing and asking for more as the RPMs go higher! even in 3th gear, where you used to be able to tell the car was out of breath, it keeps pulling to redline. throughout the lower ranges of the RPMs you can feel the difference as well. overall im pleased with the results of the swap. going from full NPI to the complete PI swap would be really, really worth it for any NPI stang. if you have the time and money to wait, i would suggest you get the PI heads ported along with getting a decent set of cams (stage 1 or so) and a tune, then it will really shine. - going to wait a few weeks before i take it to the track, just to make sure everything is ok with the car. have some before time slips (1/8 mile) and looking to get some after time slips.- i had been running 91 octane gas for about 2 tanks before the swap. i suggest you do this so you dont get knocking or pinging. might try to see what happens if i switch to lower octane gas, but kinda dont want to risk it. - still on the stock tune, even with all the bolt ons. no CEL light either.</blockquote>