Instrument cluster suddenly died!!

EvertonSteve

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Hi all,

I need some help!!!

After working out what the water leak into the footwells may be, in addition to a power steering pump issue, my beloved Mustang sends me another problem!!!

I was driving it, this morning (on way to check issue with power steering, when ALL of the gauges suddenly stopped working. The rest of the dash works, warning lights, indicators, etc.

Fuse seems okay.

I disconnected, and reconnected, the battery but still dead.

Any ideas?

I'm in the UK so specialists are limited so hoping it's something I can fix.

Thanks all
 

cobrajeff96

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I'd say start by removing the cluster, carefully. Inspect the flex circuit board on the back side, look for burn marks on the copper tracers. If you find this to be the culprit, National Parts Depot actually sells whole (and brand new) flex boards. Got one myself a little more than a year ago just to be on the safe side. Also check the low current fuse panel beneath the dash. If you find a blown fuse, don't immediately replace it, but rather consult the owners manual to see what else beside the gauge cluster shares that circuit. This will reveal all possible areas where there might be a short circuit somewhere. If it's only the cluster on that circuit, well, that narrows it down pretty nicely. Could actually be something as simple as a torn or overly corroded ground that essentially feeds those gauges, and not necessarily a blown fuse (short circuit) -- there's that possibility too. But it's not insurmountable, just gotta put in the sweat.
 

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EvertonSteve

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both under the hood and the dash?
Yes. All okay.

I also emailed a company, Accutach (who were mentioned on another post). They've just got back to me with a lengthy email.
They seem to think I'm screwed! They think it's burned out. It can't be replaced as the New Edge fords are designed not to swap the component with a new one without complete reprogramming. He knew of no one that can do this on the States, never mind over here in the UK.
I'm absolutely gutted at this and am just hoping for a miracle now!
 

ttocs

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don't get excited yet we have barely started. You mentioned that you were messing around in the footwells recently and the wiring from the dash comes up through there, across the top of the dash and then back down the other side. Start there and see if you see any copper/metal showing it is possible you just nicked a wire enough to short something out or maybe a pin from a harness got pushed out.
 
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EvertonSteve

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don't get excited yet we have barely started. You mentioned that you were messing around in the footwells recently and the wiring from the dash comes up through there, across the top of the dash and then back down the other side. Start there and see if you see any copper/metal showing it is possible you just nicked a wire enough to short something out or maybe a pin from a harness got pushed out.
Hi, all the work I've been doing is in the rear footwells. Not touched the front ones.
 
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EvertonSteve

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UPDATE.....

Dash gauges came back alive today! Hoping it was just dirt/damp on a connector but I'll be keeping an eye on it. Fingers crossed!!

Thanks to everyone for their help
 
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r3dn3ck

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Your tech guy likely has head up ass. New edge gauge clusters are 100% replaceable as long as you use one from the same trim level and no tuning or gizmos are required. The flexible control board on the back is married to the anti-theft so it needs to be transferred. If it is burned out then it is harder but still totally possible. You will just have to do the PATS reset procedure which requires a coded key (you probably use it already). Get the whole cluster assembly, not just a piece of it. We can help with parts of the issue returns.
 
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EvertonSteve

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Your tech guy likely has head up ass. New edge gauge clusters are 100% replaceable as long as you use one from the same trim level and no tuning or gizmos are required. The flexible control board on the back is married to the anti-theft so it needs to be transferred. If it is burned out then it is harder but still totally possible. You will just have to do the PATS reset procedure which requires a coded key (you probably use it already). Get the whole cluster assembly, not just a piece of it. We can help with parts of the issue returns.
Many thanks for your advice. Greatly appreciated.

Fingers crossed it's okay now but I'll be in touch if it starts again.

Thanks again
 

r3dn3ck

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If you have done any soldering ever, the electronics involved are totally within your grasp, even if you don’t know it. You should be able to replace almost anything down to the component level in the whole assembly. Even the FCB itself can be damaged and that can be, if not actually repaired, solved without replacement. Illiterates in the most backward 5th world holes in the world can rewind a generator.
 

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