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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Mustang5L5" data-source="post: 1537421" data-attributes="member: 30520">I remember that study because it presented some interesting findings that I was interested in when I installed a PHB on my Fox. I actually had it linked in this thread.  Post #4, but same content[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?9237-Searched-hard-no-luck-Ehren-s-bind-study-where&s=&highlight=Ehren[/URL]So my Fox has pretty much the entire MM catalog on it other than the Torque Arm.  It's in the plans, but I got distracted this off-season with working on my SN95.  Wasn't sure if i wanted to run the PHB with the stock uppers in place until i read thisThis predictability that a PB provides is why we recommend it on a 4 link (with the correct <a href="https://hotpart.com/" target="_blank">control arms</a>) for people on a budget, or Solo II Street Prepared cars (not allowed to remove uppers). True, you are inducing bind in this situation, but that bind should not significantly change as you load the <a href="https://hotpart.com/" target="_blank">suspension</a> laterally. When driving the car, the effective added spring rate (from bind) balances well with the new lower RC, and the improved stability and predictability. YES this is a compromise, but I feel it beats trying to locate the axle laterally with stiffer bushings.Bar is hooked up but I have not driven on it yet.  Likely won't install the TA until next winter no, so i've been debating if i leave the 4-link with the PHB or maybe remove the pass side upper and try a PM3L with torque arm springs that I already have.</blockquote>