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My 351w Swapped 1995 Mustang GT
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<blockquote data-quote="Chris Stephens" data-source="post: 1469824" data-attributes="member: 24095"><p>Did another AutoX last weekend. Car is doing great with the new fuel pump, other than I can't run the car anywhere near half tank or it sucks air. My cousin, Mike's, fastest runs would've been even faster if the fuel pump hadn't made the engine cut briefly after two different spots in the course. </p><p></p><p>Here's some videos of our runs:</p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9il2fNndE7E&list=PLCKWf4I2QKtg1B9nFNb0dtxXfo2VCwDdy" target="_blank">Mike's AutoX runs</a></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BppMsheKrnw&list=PLCKWf4I2QKtjPZPZe5zZGK4HWO5smpLUL" target="_blank">My AutoX runs</a></p><p></p><p>There's no sound because I accidentally muted my knockoff GoPro. </p><p></p><p>I did order some more aggressive Raybestos ST43 rear pads, since the rears need replacing anyway. They are the usual go-to for guys running the ST47s up front. </p><p></p><p>My cousin doesn’t think they will help. He loves the braking the way it is now and thinks changing it is a bad move. He’s usually right, and probably still is, but I’m pretty stubborn and want to try it since I need new pads anyway. The car is nose-diving soooo much, I just keep thinking it would be nice to get the rear tires to help with the braking load. I might try it and change my mind though. If so, I’ll just put some el cheapo pads back on the back and save these for open track days.</p><p></p><p>That’s the only change I am making right at this moment. I need to fix a front crank seal leak, valve cover leak, and do a swap on my alternator. It’s under warranty, but isn’t putting out full voltage since I killed the battery.</p><p></p><p>I should have some funds freed up with some strict budgeting and ramen noodle lunches by mid to late September. That should allow me an upgrade from my no-longer-adjustable Tokicos to some MM RACE-2 or Koni DAs. Our next event isn’t until the last week in September, so there’s a chance I can do some of this before then. But I dunno yet. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Current “first-round” upgrade plans are:</p><p></p><p>-MM Torque Arm</p><p></p><p>-MM Panhard Bar (my cousin wants me to go Watts Link…but there are a lot of fast guys with PHB, too, I’m learning. I dunno yet. The PHB is half the price of the Watts, but I also don’t want to do it again down the line.)</p><p></p><p>-MM TA Springs</p><p></p><p>-Stock lower control arms on the rear (MM doesn’t like the urethane Steeda ones I currently have installed. They say it causes binding.)</p><p></p><p>-MM Race-2 or Koni DA Shocks/Struts (Any preference? Long term plan is to go front coilovers from MM. The MM versions are non-adjustable, but designed to work with their coilovers in a specific spring rate range. I’m looking at 425 front rate COs and the <a href="https://www.maximummotorsports.com/High-Rate-Torque-arm-Rear-Springs-pair-P1150.aspx" target="_blank">TA Springs</a>. I like the idea of having a lot of adjustment, but I also know me...I'll most likely set it and not mess with them like I should.)</p><p></p><p>-MM Caster/Camber plates</p><p></p><p>-Fabricating/Modifying a front strut tower brace and lower K member brace. If I have the funds, I am also thinking of skipping straight to the MM K-Member, moving the engine back 1" and the wheels forward a total of 1.5". One of the "problems" my cousin and I have talked about is the roll center on the front. With the current springs, the control arms are aimed up. Steeda makes some X2 balljoints to help fix that, but MM has a higher control arm mounting location that would do the same thing. But that also requires me to go all the way on my coilover plans, so it'll really depend on the all-important $$$. </p><p></p><p>-Canton oil pan setup</p><p></p><p>If we go ahead and pull the engine, I also need to run gauge lines through the firewall. Oil pressure, water temp, voltage, etc. And remove some of the old wiring/clean up my wiring on my Holley Sniper. </p><p></p><p>-----------------------------------------------------------</p><p></p><p>In other news, I rode in a guys car that had the full MM package last Saturday (which was a tighter, slower course) and…WOW! He went into one hard turn and I puckered and thought, "He can't make that, he can't make that..." and bam, he took it like it was nothing. I'm feeling more sure about that setup now. He was much more skilled than me, of course, but the MM and 315s helped him take 7th place overall and in PAX on Sunday's fast course on a stock engine 2004 Mach 1. He beat out a lot of cars that seemed like they would have “more” in them. Heck, we had 100hp on him, and he beat Mike by a second and a half. </p><p></p><p>-----------------------------------------------------------</p><p>In other news, my dad is continuing to make me more and more jealous... He found a wrecked GT out of Arizona. Needs a lot of cosmetic work, but my cousin and I did some work to it this weekend, and it should be drivable, at least. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]6082[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]6086[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chris Stephens, post: 1469824, member: 24095"] Did another AutoX last weekend. Car is doing great with the new fuel pump, other than I can't run the car anywhere near half tank or it sucks air. My cousin, Mike's, fastest runs would've been even faster if the fuel pump hadn't made the engine cut briefly after two different spots in the course. Here's some videos of our runs: [URL='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9il2fNndE7E&list=PLCKWf4I2QKtg1B9nFNb0dtxXfo2VCwDdy']Mike's AutoX runs[/URL] [URL='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BppMsheKrnw&list=PLCKWf4I2QKtjPZPZe5zZGK4HWO5smpLUL']My AutoX runs[/URL] There's no sound because I accidentally muted my knockoff GoPro. I did order some more aggressive Raybestos ST43 rear pads, since the rears need replacing anyway. They are the usual go-to for guys running the ST47s up front. My cousin doesn’t think they will help. He loves the braking the way it is now and thinks changing it is a bad move. He’s usually right, and probably still is, but I’m pretty stubborn and want to try it since I need new pads anyway. The car is nose-diving soooo much, I just keep thinking it would be nice to get the rear tires to help with the braking load. I might try it and change my mind though. If so, I’ll just put some el cheapo pads back on the back and save these for open track days. That’s the only change I am making right at this moment. I need to fix a front crank seal leak, valve cover leak, and do a swap on my alternator. It’s under warranty, but isn’t putting out full voltage since I killed the battery. I should have some funds freed up with some strict budgeting and ramen noodle lunches by mid to late September. That should allow me an upgrade from my no-longer-adjustable Tokicos to some MM RACE-2 or Koni DAs. Our next event isn’t until the last week in September, so there’s a chance I can do some of this before then. But I dunno yet. Current “first-round” upgrade plans are: -MM Torque Arm -MM Panhard Bar (my cousin wants me to go Watts Link…but there are a lot of fast guys with PHB, too, I’m learning. I dunno yet. The PHB is half the price of the Watts, but I also don’t want to do it again down the line.) -MM TA Springs -Stock lower control arms on the rear (MM doesn’t like the urethane Steeda ones I currently have installed. They say it causes binding.) -MM Race-2 or Koni DA Shocks/Struts (Any preference? Long term plan is to go front coilovers from MM. The MM versions are non-adjustable, but designed to work with their coilovers in a specific spring rate range. I’m looking at 425 front rate COs and the [URL='https://www.maximummotorsports.com/High-Rate-Torque-arm-Rear-Springs-pair-P1150.aspx']TA Springs[/URL]. I like the idea of having a lot of adjustment, but I also know me...I'll most likely set it and not mess with them like I should.) -MM Caster/Camber plates -Fabricating/Modifying a front strut tower brace and lower K member brace. If I have the funds, I am also thinking of skipping straight to the MM K-Member, moving the engine back 1" and the wheels forward a total of 1.5". One of the "problems" my cousin and I have talked about is the roll center on the front. With the current springs, the control arms are aimed up. Steeda makes some X2 balljoints to help fix that, but MM has a higher control arm mounting location that would do the same thing. But that also requires me to go all the way on my coilover plans, so it'll really depend on the all-important $$$. -Canton oil pan setup If we go ahead and pull the engine, I also need to run gauge lines through the firewall. Oil pressure, water temp, voltage, etc. And remove some of the old wiring/clean up my wiring on my Holley Sniper. ----------------------------------------------------------- In other news, I rode in a guys car that had the full MM package last Saturday (which was a tighter, slower course) and…WOW! He went into one hard turn and I puckered and thought, "He can't make that, he can't make that..." and bam, he took it like it was nothing. I'm feeling more sure about that setup now. He was much more skilled than me, of course, but the MM and 315s helped him take 7th place overall and in PAX on Sunday's fast course on a stock engine 2004 Mach 1. He beat out a lot of cars that seemed like they would have “more” in them. Heck, we had 100hp on him, and he beat Mike by a second and a half. ----------------------------------------------------------- In other news, my dad is continuing to make me more and more jealous... He found a wrecked GT out of Arizona. Needs a lot of cosmetic work, but my cousin and I did some work to it this weekend, and it should be drivable, at least. [ATTACH=full]6082[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]6086[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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