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My 351w Swapped 1995 Mustang GT
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<blockquote data-quote="Chris Stephens" data-source="post: 1473872" data-attributes="member: 24095"><p>Update: I was having an alternator issue that I believe I narrowed down to sheer RPMs. I installed a new alternator to replace one with some internal damage and drove an hour to an AutoCross event. Alternator charged the whole way, no issues. Once I got there, though, I did <em>one </em>AutoCross run and killed it! After doing some math on it, I found that at 7000 RPM, I was running the alternator at about 21,000 RPM.</p><p></p><p>I installed a smaller crankshaft pulley from a BBK 1554 underdrive pulley set from a gentleman on here. I left the stock water pump and a 2-3/4" alternator pulley on the car. This gives me about a 1:1 crank to water pump ratio and a little less than 2:1 alternator to crank ratio.</p><p></p><p>We didn't have any charging issues at AutoCross this weekend, but I do think I will install the 2-1/4" alternator pulley. I was seeing around 13.8 volts at idle all weekend.</p><p></p><p>My suspension plan changed <em>once again. </em>I wasn't planning to buy rear coilovers right now. They end up adding about $300 to the build, and I was already cutting it a bit close in terms of budgeting. But Jack from MM said that I would never be able to get enough spring under the rear with stock location springs paired with front coilovers and the TA/Watts Link. He's the expert, so I deferred to him.</p><p></p><p>So my <em>final </em>build list for this time around:</p><p></p><p>FRONT:</p><p>MM Gen 3 Race-RA2 Valving (PN MAX-12-MT for the Front and Rear Strut/Shock Kit)</p><p>MM Coilover Kit (COP-24)</p><p>Hypercoil 2.5"/10"/425 lb/in Springs (HYP42510250)</p><p>MM Four Bolt Caster/Camber Plates (MMCC9994)</p><p></p><p>REAR:</p><p>MM Gen 3 Race-RA2 Valving (with Spherical Bearing Lower Shock Eyelet, Small Dustcovers (SERVICE-7))</p><p>MM Torque Arm (MMTA-1)</p><p>MM Standard Upper Mount Coil-Over Kit (MMCO-22)</p><p>Hypercoil 2.25"/9"/275 lb/in Springs (HYP27509225)</p><p>MM Lower Shock Mount Kit (MMSM-2)</p><p>Fays2 SN95 Watts Link w/11" bars (to clear the MM Torque Arm)</p><p></p><p>STEERING:</p><p>MM Solid Steering Rack Bushings (MMST-7)</p><p>MM Solid Steering Shaft (MMST14)</p><p></p><p>CHASSIS:</p><p>Stiffler's Full Length Subframe Connectors (SFC-M01)</p><p>Stiffler's Jacking Rails (SR-M01)</p><p>Stiffler's Web Bracing (WEB-M01)</p><p>SR Performance Front Strut Tower Brace (Will need to be modified to clear the taller 351w)</p><p></p><p>Oh, and a white Hurst ball shifter just because I like the look! (And because my massive bear paws don't hang on to the tiny stock plastic piece very well, especially when sweating. My cousin has a Hurst knob in his Trans Am and it feels really nice in my hand. We tested it out this past weekend, and it feels pretty good!)</p><p></p><p>I also installed a manual seat track courtesy of a friend that AutoCrosses with us. The factory electric seat didn't work very well and we move it back and forth a lot with my short cousin codriving.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7098[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]7099[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chris Stephens, post: 1473872, member: 24095"] Update: I was having an alternator issue that I believe I narrowed down to sheer RPMs. I installed a new alternator to replace one with some internal damage and drove an hour to an AutoCross event. Alternator charged the whole way, no issues. Once I got there, though, I did [I]one [/I]AutoCross run and killed it! After doing some math on it, I found that at 7000 RPM, I was running the alternator at about 21,000 RPM. I installed a smaller crankshaft pulley from a BBK 1554 underdrive pulley set from a gentleman on here. I left the stock water pump and a 2-3/4" alternator pulley on the car. This gives me about a 1:1 crank to water pump ratio and a little less than 2:1 alternator to crank ratio. We didn't have any charging issues at AutoCross this weekend, but I do think I will install the 2-1/4" alternator pulley. I was seeing around 13.8 volts at idle all weekend. My suspension plan changed [I]once again. [/I]I wasn't planning to buy rear coilovers right now. They end up adding about $300 to the build, and I was already cutting it a bit close in terms of budgeting. But Jack from MM said that I would never be able to get enough spring under the rear with stock location springs paired with front coilovers and the TA/Watts Link. He's the expert, so I deferred to him. So my [I]final [/I]build list for this time around: FRONT: MM Gen 3 Race-RA2 Valving (PN MAX-12-MT for the Front and Rear Strut/Shock Kit) MM Coilover Kit (COP-24) Hypercoil 2.5"/10"/425 lb/in Springs (HYP42510250) MM Four Bolt Caster/Camber Plates (MMCC9994) REAR: MM Gen 3 Race-RA2 Valving (with Spherical Bearing Lower Shock Eyelet, Small Dustcovers (SERVICE-7)) MM Torque Arm (MMTA-1) MM Standard Upper Mount Coil-Over Kit (MMCO-22) Hypercoil 2.25"/9"/275 lb/in Springs (HYP27509225) MM Lower Shock Mount Kit (MMSM-2) Fays2 SN95 Watts Link w/11" bars (to clear the MM Torque Arm) STEERING: MM Solid Steering Rack Bushings (MMST-7) MM Solid Steering Shaft (MMST14) CHASSIS: Stiffler's Full Length Subframe Connectors (SFC-M01) Stiffler's Jacking Rails (SR-M01) Stiffler's Web Bracing (WEB-M01) SR Performance Front Strut Tower Brace (Will need to be modified to clear the taller 351w) Oh, and a white Hurst ball shifter just because I like the look! (And because my massive bear paws don't hang on to the tiny stock plastic piece very well, especially when sweating. My cousin has a Hurst knob in his Trans Am and it feels really nice in my hand. We tested it out this past weekend, and it feels pretty good!) I also installed a manual seat track courtesy of a friend that AutoCrosses with us. The factory electric seat didn't work very well and we move it back and forth a lot with my short cousin codriving. [ATTACH=full]7098[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]7099[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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