Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Multimedia & Entertainment
The Garage
My 70 dollar Heat Extractor Hood
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="LilRoush" data-source="post: 1011020" data-attributes="member: 14887"><p>So I'm chiming in on an older thread but a couple of things to address from my background with aerodynamics to help shed some light here.</p><p></p><p>1st - The 99/01 Cobra hood that ended up on the 03/04 V6s is not functional at all. The 'vent' isn't open. It's just like a backwards version of the 'scoop' on the V6/GT from 99-04.</p><p></p><p>2nd/3rd (two points tied togethe) - Old school cowls (and NASCAR) work with carb'd set ups. The vent at the base of the windshield sucks air in - giving cooler fresh air to the top of the motor. Also, having the carb up top creates vacuum at the top of the engine bay, which the newer cars don't have. If you want an example of this on a fuel injected Mutang, look at the Stage 3 Roush from 1995 for the 5.0L. Relocated air inlet/filter at the top of the motor toward the rear - and a matching hood with cowl vent at the back which created that sweet spot for suction. Nice outside air pulled right in. </p><p></p><p>They Y2K R hoods with vent on the top that are open work very well for heat extraction due to the nature of the air flowing over that point of the hood. It would have been more function to locate them further forward and wider - like the Terminator. The Y2K R hood also takes into account over all airflow coming off the hood and transitioning it to the windshield. It's working in harmony with the splitter and rear wing they are also equipped with. </p><p></p><p>The reverse vents (like made) help suck the hot air out after it passes the radiator. They work very well. If you try to force air in the top of the engine bay of the newer Mustangs you aren't doing anything of use. You are forcing air backwards from how it's naturally flowing, and creating pressure where you don't want it. Granted, it isn't enough the typical street car will ever see, but on the track - you'll know it. </p><p></p><p>You want hot air out as soon as it passes your cooling contact point (radiator). You also want it out over the top. Having disturbed air (or any extra air) under the car will also cost you on the track.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="LilRoush, post: 1011020, member: 14887"] So I'm chiming in on an older thread but a couple of things to address from my background with aerodynamics to help shed some light here. 1st - The 99/01 Cobra hood that ended up on the 03/04 V6s is not functional at all. The 'vent' isn't open. It's just like a backwards version of the 'scoop' on the V6/GT from 99-04. 2nd/3rd (two points tied togethe) - Old school cowls (and NASCAR) work with carb'd set ups. The vent at the base of the windshield sucks air in - giving cooler fresh air to the top of the motor. Also, having the carb up top creates vacuum at the top of the engine bay, which the newer cars don't have. If you want an example of this on a fuel injected Mutang, look at the Stage 3 Roush from 1995 for the 5.0L. Relocated air inlet/filter at the top of the motor toward the rear - and a matching hood with cowl vent at the back which created that sweet spot for suction. Nice outside air pulled right in. They Y2K R hoods with vent on the top that are open work very well for heat extraction due to the nature of the air flowing over that point of the hood. It would have been more function to locate them further forward and wider - like the Terminator. The Y2K R hood also takes into account over all airflow coming off the hood and transitioning it to the windshield. It's working in harmony with the splitter and rear wing they are also equipped with. The reverse vents (like made) help suck the hot air out after it passes the radiator. They work very well. If you try to force air in the top of the engine bay of the newer Mustangs you aren't doing anything of use. You are forcing air backwards from how it's naturally flowing, and creating pressure where you don't want it. Granted, it isn't enough the typical street car will ever see, but on the track - you'll know it. You want hot air out as soon as it passes your cooling contact point (radiator). You also want it out over the top. Having disturbed air (or any extra air) under the car will also cost you on the track. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Random media
Latest posts
Hci or vortech or any other ideas
Latest: 95Five0
38 minutes ago
94-95 5.0 - Specific
Wheel and tire specs?
Latest: SsgDoc94
39 minutes ago
Suspension and Brakes
Complete sn95 5.0 OEM exhaust system for sale in davenport iowa.
Latest: shovel
Today at 12:50 PM
94-95 5.0 - Specific
What Did You Do To Your Car Today?
Latest: NEW EDG
Today at 11:10 AM
The Garage
"BlackJack, Nat Loves Dream", my 1999 GT
Latest: 07GtS197
Today at 7:05 AM
Build Ups & Projects
Share this page
Reddit
Pinterest
Tumblr
WhatsApp
Email
Share
Link
Forum statistics
Threads
78,554
Messages
1,536,116
Members
16,201
Latest member
jgib8795
Members online
wmfateam
98snakehorse
shovel
Forums
Multimedia & Entertainment
The Garage
My 70 dollar Heat Extractor Hood
Top