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Message: <blockquote data-quote="TheOdessa" data-source="post: 1462281" data-attributes="member: 24526">The stock brakes were horrid and MyLittlePony makes so much sense when he mentions front end damage. I actually almost rear ended someone after they pulled out in front of me. It was nothing insane (I have a 2018 F150 I DD and it 100% would have stopped with no issue minus cuss words) but with my Mustang it was scary how bad the brake fade and performance was when the brakes were slammed on. I also had my daughter in the car. That’s when I finally said I need to just go ahead and get the brakes done. I’ve been wanting to do it for a while and that sealed the deal. I actually recently just did them over the quarantine. The stock braking system I completely overhauled just over a year ago too with new rotors, new calipers, new rubber brake lines and a fluid flush thinking that’s all I needed to do to get adequate braking power but the stock stuff is really that bad.When I did this project over quarantine I went with refurb powder coated front cobra calipers, kept the rears GT, new front rotors as Cobra is 13” versus GT 11”. Went with stainless braided lines at all four corners and Hawk HPS 5.0 pads in all 4 corners. Brake fluid was flushed again.Break the new pads in properly and the difference is absolutely positively night and day. I simply couldn’t believe the difference in stopping power. I will say you can definitely tell the fronts are doing a lot more of the work now which makes me want to redo the rears with a Cobra swap but not enough to drop the coin to do it anytime soon. In respect to safety it’s one of the best mods I should have done long ago. The peace of mind alone that I can now stop hard when needed is restored. Since roads are empty I tested a few circumstances when I needed to slam on them hard and no fade at all and it worked just as I had hoped.I don’t know what your budget is, but it sounds like maybe the previous owner didn’t do maintenance on them if you need to stand on them. It’s all about what you want versus budget. Before the cobra swap I was really really eyeing a full Wilwood brake swap. It would have put me in the 3k mark but that’s how bad my experience scared me plus where i love you are automatically at fault if you rear end someone. Didn’t want the hassle. I’m glad I didn’t as what I have now more then meets what I wanted.You could just do new stainless braided lines, new stock rotors, and a good quality pad, flush it and be absolutely happy with it. All in what your budget is for the project. I did my cobra swap with a target budget in mind and hit it doing some homework and shopping around. In regards to your question on air. Could have air or may just need a flush. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time which is why fluid needs to be flushed as a maintenance item. Water doesn’t compress and brakes work on hydraulic pressure. Water will also rot brake lines internally over time. Rubber lines also become brittle over time and will expand more then what spec calls for also degrading performance. Look at them visually and see if they are cracked or damaged. Even take a picture maybe for us to see. You can also take a turkey baster to extract fluid from the master cylinder under the hood. Is the fluid clear like it should be or brown which will tell you if it’s bad?I have details in the build thread in my sig of you want to see what I did and the costs. You could do the swap even cheaper than I did but I splurged a bit so I didn’t have to mess with it again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk</blockquote>