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Engine Specific Tech
96-04 - 2V Specific
P0320 code still kicking my ass
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<blockquote data-quote="ThatSNninety5" data-source="post: 1570932" data-attributes="member: 30741"><p>So last year around I want to say September I posted on this forum about the P0320 code going on with my 98’ mustang, as stated in the last forum it misfires and sputters while driving but the idle is completely fine, it also like to sometimes cut out when coming to a stop or occasionally while driving very slow. I didnt mess with it all winter just because well that self explanatory. I started with replacing the spark plugs and nothing happened. I replaced the crankshaft sensor 3 different times, the first one being a Dorman, the second two because Motorcraft, i also replaced the camshaft sensor also being motorcraft, PCM has also been replaced as well as my coil banks on the front of the engine. So let me update you guys a bit, I just got it back from a mechanic after him having it for a month and a week, he couldnt figure the problem, he tested fuel that is good, he test air that is good, then he went onto testing/checking ground, all of them were good and cleaned, he checked the reluctor ring as well said there was no damage to it, he also mentioned something to do with the sensor possibly not being grounded due to some sort of corrosion on the block where the sensor is, he checked that it was good. He also traced the wiring from my crankshaft sensor to my PCM, all was good, no splits, no bare wire etc. Long story short, he was he narrowed it down to it being something to do with spark 100% but then he just ended up giving up and telling me to come pick it up. So I did some looking and noticed that my coil pack wires were in the correct firing order but something was off, we all know the coil pack wires are all different lengths and I had some that were too short for where they were supposed to be causing some wires to sit on top of my alternator and valve cover getting them pretty hot so I took all the wires off and redid them to the proper firing order and length of the wires as well as zip tied them up so none of them were touching anything hot, after I did that my car was perfect for two days, not one misfire or sputter or cut out I thought hell yeah I finally fixed it, well then a CEL came on again, P0320. The car started misfiring and sputtering again, popped the hood, wires are still plugged in and tied up out of the way etc. What I find most weird about this whole thing is the fact that yesterday I was driving, car cuts out and I pull over, I tried starting it, it starts but instantly cuts out again, tried again, same thing. Pulled out my code reader and cleared the code and the car started up with no problems and I was able to get back home with maybe a few little misfires but no excessive jerking, sputtering etc. I believe it something majorly wrong electrical with it because for example I drove it today, it was fine, but on the way home it misfires sputtered etc so its like sometime itll do it and sometimes it work completely fine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ThatSNninety5, post: 1570932, member: 30741"] So last year around I want to say September I posted on this forum about the P0320 code going on with my 98’ mustang, as stated in the last forum it misfires and sputters while driving but the idle is completely fine, it also like to sometimes cut out when coming to a stop or occasionally while driving very slow. I didnt mess with it all winter just because well that self explanatory. I started with replacing the spark plugs and nothing happened. I replaced the crankshaft sensor 3 different times, the first one being a Dorman, the second two because Motorcraft, i also replaced the camshaft sensor also being motorcraft, PCM has also been replaced as well as my coil banks on the front of the engine. So let me update you guys a bit, I just got it back from a mechanic after him having it for a month and a week, he couldnt figure the problem, he tested fuel that is good, he test air that is good, then he went onto testing/checking ground, all of them were good and cleaned, he checked the reluctor ring as well said there was no damage to it, he also mentioned something to do with the sensor possibly not being grounded due to some sort of corrosion on the block where the sensor is, he checked that it was good. He also traced the wiring from my crankshaft sensor to my PCM, all was good, no splits, no bare wire etc. Long story short, he was he narrowed it down to it being something to do with spark 100% but then he just ended up giving up and telling me to come pick it up. So I did some looking and noticed that my coil pack wires were in the correct firing order but something was off, we all know the coil pack wires are all different lengths and I had some that were too short for where they were supposed to be causing some wires to sit on top of my alternator and valve cover getting them pretty hot so I took all the wires off and redid them to the proper firing order and length of the wires as well as zip tied them up so none of them were touching anything hot, after I did that my car was perfect for two days, not one misfire or sputter or cut out I thought hell yeah I finally fixed it, well then a CEL came on again, P0320. The car started misfiring and sputtering again, popped the hood, wires are still plugged in and tied up out of the way etc. What I find most weird about this whole thing is the fact that yesterday I was driving, car cuts out and I pull over, I tried starting it, it starts but instantly cuts out again, tried again, same thing. Pulled out my code reader and cleared the code and the car started up with no problems and I was able to get back home with maybe a few little misfires but no excessive jerking, sputtering etc. I believe it something majorly wrong electrical with it because for example I drove it today, it was fine, but on the way home it misfires sputtered etc so its like sometime itll do it and sometimes it work completely fine. [/QUOTE]
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96-04 - 2V Specific
P0320 code still kicking my ass
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