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Message: <blockquote data-quote="ttocs" data-source="post: 1503431" data-attributes="member: 11896">first question is how did you test the battery?  You need to remove it from the car/disconnect it and then put it on a charger.  When it is done you can test it right off the charger if you want, but I would suggest leaving it alone for a few hours/over night if you can still disconnected and then test it in the morning.  I have seen batteries that tested good right off the charger and then a few hours later had lost voltage while not being hooked up, and then tested bad.  To test for a drain you again start by disconnecting your battery.  It does not matter if it is the +/- just pick one and remove the lead from the battery.  Now get out your multimeter and set it for current which will either show A/mA or possibly "I".  It is also not uncommon that on some meters there will be 2 places for the positive lead to go in to the meter and if you look next to them one should say V/R and the other mA/I, put the lead in the mA/I port.  Now all you need to do is connect one of the leads on the meter to the now disconnected battery terminal, and the other to the wire that use to be attached to it so the meter is in the middle.  At this point take a reading and your current should be close to 0 but 5-10mA current is not uncommon to retain the radio/ignition memory.  If it is higher than that then you go to your fuse box and just start pulling fuses and watch the display.  At some point the meter should show the current drop down, at that point you have isolated what circuits might be the drain by looking up what gets power from that fuse.In the sn95's the mach amps are known battery drains.  If you peel the carpet back on the drivers side console under the radio you might be able to see if the mach/premium sound amp is still installed and disconnect it if it is.</blockquote>