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ReplicaR's Mustang build *finally on track again*
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<blockquote data-quote="ReplicaR" data-source="post: 921388" data-attributes="member: 9209"><p>So, while nothing is going on, I decided to increase my bump travel on the rear shocks. The way the car sits right now, there is simply not enough bump travel (probably 1.5 inches), which causes the shock to bottom out if there is a lot weight transfer, like for example in a slow corner with a lot of grip, and causes the car to oversteer. There are several ways you can give yourself more travel. You can shorten the shock, you can move the shock mounting points, so that there is more travel, or you can play with bump stop and some careful measurements. I've done the bump stop trim, since it's free and effective. There were couple of steps prior to me cutting a bump stop that I had to take care of.</p><p></p><p>1. With the car's axle sitting on jack stands and wheels removed, take a sharpie marker, and mark where the shaft is in relation to body, and bump stop itself. After you finish that, you can disassemble the rear suspension and take the shock off.</p><p></p><p>2. With the shock off the car, gently compress the shock until it bottoms out on the foot valve. It is very important to do it slowly, so that you do not damage the foot valve. If the foot valve is damaged, your shock will lose it ability to dampen, and therefore will be scrapped. Mark the line on the shaft where it is fully bottomed out.</p><p></p><p>3. Trim the bump stop. It is really up to you how much to trim off. I would say that because most bump stops are made from soft material, they will compress a good deal, before they stop completely, so you don't want to give yourself 0 margin between where the bumpstop hits the shock, and where the foot valve hits the bottom of the shock inside of it. About an inch would probably be ok. Here is something worth mentioning. Some shocks, like my Koni SA do not bottom out at all. I had the shaft almost completely inside of the body, and it still did not hit the foot valve. This simply tells me that the bump stops on my shock are there purely to keep the wheels out of the wheel arches under full compression. I've spoken to Koni, and they have confirmed this is the case indeed, making it perfectly safe to trim the bump stop.</p><p></p><p>Following this process I was able to trim off 1.5 inches from the bump stop, which gave me just enough travel (over 3 inches now) under slow corners not to hit the rear bump stop, and be able to get onto power with out worrying that the car might unhook middle of the corner. Pretty soon I'll take the rear and front apart again, and take some pictures so you guys can see exactly what I'm talking about.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ReplicaR, post: 921388, member: 9209"] So, while nothing is going on, I decided to increase my bump travel on the rear shocks. The way the car sits right now, there is simply not enough bump travel (probably 1.5 inches), which causes the shock to bottom out if there is a lot weight transfer, like for example in a slow corner with a lot of grip, and causes the car to oversteer. There are several ways you can give yourself more travel. You can shorten the shock, you can move the shock mounting points, so that there is more travel, or you can play with bump stop and some careful measurements. I've done the bump stop trim, since it's free and effective. There were couple of steps prior to me cutting a bump stop that I had to take care of. 1. With the car's axle sitting on jack stands and wheels removed, take a sharpie marker, and mark where the shaft is in relation to body, and bump stop itself. After you finish that, you can disassemble the rear suspension and take the shock off. 2. With the shock off the car, gently compress the shock until it bottoms out on the foot valve. It is very important to do it slowly, so that you do not damage the foot valve. If the foot valve is damaged, your shock will lose it ability to dampen, and therefore will be scrapped. Mark the line on the shaft where it is fully bottomed out. 3. Trim the bump stop. It is really up to you how much to trim off. I would say that because most bump stops are made from soft material, they will compress a good deal, before they stop completely, so you don't want to give yourself 0 margin between where the bumpstop hits the shock, and where the foot valve hits the bottom of the shock inside of it. About an inch would probably be ok. Here is something worth mentioning. Some shocks, like my Koni SA do not bottom out at all. I had the shaft almost completely inside of the body, and it still did not hit the foot valve. This simply tells me that the bump stops on my shock are there purely to keep the wheels out of the wheel arches under full compression. I've spoken to Koni, and they have confirmed this is the case indeed, making it perfectly safe to trim the bump stop. Following this process I was able to trim off 1.5 inches from the bump stop, which gave me just enough travel (over 3 inches now) under slow corners not to hit the rear bump stop, and be able to get onto power with out worrying that the car might unhook middle of the corner. Pretty soon I'll take the rear and front apart again, and take some pictures so you guys can see exactly what I'm talking about. [/QUOTE]
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