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Engine Specific Tech
96-04 - 2V Specific
Seat tracks fixed
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<blockquote data-quote="yeroc281" data-source="post: 554492" data-attributes="member: 10393"><p>all right I diagnosed the problem with the seat track switch. I took a volt/ohms meter and ran some simple tests on the back of the 4 way seat adjustment switch. Mine was not getting any power to the forward and down wires. There is a gold(brass) + plate that runs the direction, on the back of the switch were the power wires run. The wires were still attached but the brass +(plus plate) had poped up not making contact inside the switch. I noticed mine wasnt making contact on 2 of the four points. It look like Ford pop riveted these brass + plates inside the switch.</p><p></p><p>I figured I might as well try out the soldering gun to see if I can get a connection. Low and behold it actually worked. I felt like Doc Emmit Brown "I actually made something that works!" Well 99% works I got the down working perfectly but on the forward part I had to get a good blob of solder under the brass +(plus) to get the forward to work. I couldnt get a good connection with the solder but I held a tiny screw driver on the gold plate to move it forward. Make sure you disconnect the neg terminal on your battery or you'll blow a fuse when soldering or just take the wire harness of the seat itself. Anyway I can post some pics if anyones interested.</p><p></p><p>Point of the story is don't throw out the power rails and swap them for manuals just yet. It might just be the switch that just needs alil soldering.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="yeroc281, post: 554492, member: 10393"] all right I diagnosed the problem with the seat track switch. I took a volt/ohms meter and ran some simple tests on the back of the 4 way seat adjustment switch. Mine was not getting any power to the forward and down wires. There is a gold(brass) + plate that runs the direction, on the back of the switch were the power wires run. The wires were still attached but the brass +(plus plate) had poped up not making contact inside the switch. I noticed mine wasnt making contact on 2 of the four points. It look like Ford pop riveted these brass + plates inside the switch. I figured I might as well try out the soldering gun to see if I can get a connection. Low and behold it actually worked. I felt like Doc Emmit Brown "I actually made something that works!" Well 99% works I got the down working perfectly but on the forward part I had to get a good blob of solder under the brass +(plus) to get the forward to work. I couldnt get a good connection with the solder but I held a tiny screw driver on the gold plate to move it forward. Make sure you disconnect the neg terminal on your battery or you'll blow a fuse when soldering or just take the wire harness of the seat itself. Anyway I can post some pics if anyones interested. Point of the story is don't throw out the power rails and swap them for manuals just yet. It might just be the switch that just needs alil soldering. [/QUOTE]
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Engine Specific Tech
96-04 - 2V Specific
Seat tracks fixed
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