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Engine Specific Tech
94-95 5.0 - Specific
Stumped and Need Help
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<blockquote data-quote="mcglsr2" data-source="post: 1316908" data-attributes="member: 15705"><p>Do you know for a fact that the alternators are good? I would suggest taking all of them to Auto Zone or equivalent and have them tested (should be free).</p><p></p><p>Not sure what you are talking about regarding the "voltmeter" - the only resistor I know of is connected to the charge indicator light (the 510 ohm one) - this is there because that circuit is necessary for the alternator to work properly, and if the light bulb goes burns out it doesn't kill the circuit - thus the resistor (this resistor is located behind the instrument cluster).</p><p></p><p>The alternator circuit is actually pretty straightforward. There's only a handful of things that could be wrong. The most typical and common is the regulator on the alternator goes out. This essentially takes out the alternator. Having the alternator tested will confirm if your alternator is good or not. Other than that, there's not much else that could be wrong. Here's a list of items that could be bad:</p><p></p><p></p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Alternator/regulator is bad</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Fuse in engine bay is blown</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Instrument Panel fuse is blown</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Fusable links feeding alternator are bad (they come out of the engine bay fuse panel, there are 2 of them, and they feed into a single wire that goes to the alternator</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">If all of the above are good to go, and it's still not charging, then you have an open circuit somewhere in the alternator wiring - either in the power wires to the alternator or in the wire that runs to the charge indicator lamp</li> </ol><p></p><p>Good luck on your hunt!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mcglsr2, post: 1316908, member: 15705"] Do you know for a fact that the alternators are good? I would suggest taking all of them to Auto Zone or equivalent and have them tested (should be free). Not sure what you are talking about regarding the "voltmeter" - the only resistor I know of is connected to the charge indicator light (the 510 ohm one) - this is there because that circuit is necessary for the alternator to work properly, and if the light bulb goes burns out it doesn't kill the circuit - thus the resistor (this resistor is located behind the instrument cluster). The alternator circuit is actually pretty straightforward. There's only a handful of things that could be wrong. The most typical and common is the regulator on the alternator goes out. This essentially takes out the alternator. Having the alternator tested will confirm if your alternator is good or not. Other than that, there's not much else that could be wrong. Here's a list of items that could be bad: [LIST=1] [*]Alternator/regulator is bad [*]Fuse in engine bay is blown [*]Instrument Panel fuse is blown [*]Fusable links feeding alternator are bad (they come out of the engine bay fuse panel, there are 2 of them, and they feed into a single wire that goes to the alternator [*]If all of the above are good to go, and it's still not charging, then you have an open circuit somewhere in the alternator wiring - either in the power wires to the alternator or in the wire that runs to the charge indicator lamp [/LIST] Good luck on your hunt! [/QUOTE]
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