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Engine Specific Tech
96-04 - 2V Specific
Suspension setup question (kinda long)
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<blockquote data-quote="Dalamar" data-source="post: 272330" data-attributes="member: 8116"><p>I've gone through my whole suspension twice, so let me tell you a bit of what I learned.</p><p>suspension is not as simple as most ppl think. and what good is extra power if you can't put it down effectively?</p><p></p><p>This adjustable uppers and torque box information is commonly spread as an "upgrade" for a street car. it is NOT. </p><p>it is for drag racing cars that go in a straight line, and don't need the 4- link rear suspension to articulate under torque.</p><p>cheap parts manufacturers push to sell their junk... the fact that some illinformed persone told you to get a torque box reinforcement shows the flaw of the control arms in question.</p><p>there should be NO force transfered into the sheetmetal of the car or the "torque box" as they say... the fact that it can bend up that area of the cars unibody, and it needs to be reinforced - that is backwords thinking!</p><p></p><p>Panhard rod & better Lower control arms, and stick with stock uppers is the best way to go, if you'r staying a 4-link rear. especially on a street car where you will be hitting the throttle coming out of corners while the suspension is articulating. the info SRT posted is correct. the informaion on MM's web site is thurough and tested, you should check it out.</p><p></p><p>I'd recommend the panhard bro. the panhard keeps the axle centered which helps a lot in with corner exit and gets rid of axle defflection, which makes you slide sideways when you burn out - this is bad... :santa_lipsrsealed:</p><p></p><p>anyway, take it for what it's worth. the mustang suspension is an old design and has it's flaws. the 4-link upper articulation bind being the worst part, along with soft bushings and rain gutter shaped LCA's.... I"ve gone the rounds on suspension parts. cheaper parts will always give you less performance. if you really want your car to handle well, I'd suggest you take a look at it.</p><p></p><p>BTW, I had the panhard on my car with the stock uppers, and it was amazing difference over stock.</p><p>I've since added the torque arm, for superior rear suspension traction... and yes, it's not cheap. </p><p></p><p>It's kinda like this:</p><p>Stock suspension = VHS</p><p>Pan Hard Rod and LCA's from MM = DVD</p><p>Pan Hard with Torque arm and LCA's = High Def Blue Ray :santa_smiley:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dalamar, post: 272330, member: 8116"] I've gone through my whole suspension twice, so let me tell you a bit of what I learned. suspension is not as simple as most ppl think. and what good is extra power if you can't put it down effectively? This adjustable uppers and torque box information is commonly spread as an "upgrade" for a street car. it is NOT. it is for drag racing cars that go in a straight line, and don't need the 4- link rear suspension to articulate under torque. cheap parts manufacturers push to sell their junk... the fact that some illinformed persone told you to get a torque box reinforcement shows the flaw of the control arms in question. there should be NO force transfered into the sheetmetal of the car or the "torque box" as they say... the fact that it can bend up that area of the cars unibody, and it needs to be reinforced - that is backwords thinking! Panhard rod & better Lower control arms, and stick with stock uppers is the best way to go, if you'r staying a 4-link rear. especially on a street car where you will be hitting the throttle coming out of corners while the suspension is articulating. the info SRT posted is correct. the informaion on MM's web site is thurough and tested, you should check it out. I'd recommend the panhard bro. the panhard keeps the axle centered which helps a lot in with corner exit and gets rid of axle defflection, which makes you slide sideways when you burn out - this is bad... :santa_lipsrsealed: anyway, take it for what it's worth. the mustang suspension is an old design and has it's flaws. the 4-link upper articulation bind being the worst part, along with soft bushings and rain gutter shaped LCA's.... I"ve gone the rounds on suspension parts. cheaper parts will always give you less performance. if you really want your car to handle well, I'd suggest you take a look at it. BTW, I had the panhard on my car with the stock uppers, and it was amazing difference over stock. I've since added the torque arm, for superior rear suspension traction... and yes, it's not cheap. It's kinda like this: Stock suspension = VHS Pan Hard Rod and LCA's from MM = DVD Pan Hard with Torque arm and LCA's = High Def Blue Ray :santa_smiley: [/QUOTE]
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96-04 - 2V Specific
Suspension setup question (kinda long)
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