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Engine Specific Tech
96-04 - 2V Specific
The Torque Converter Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="SnakedMark8" data-source="post: 298379" data-attributes="member: 10115"><p>You brought up a good point about the dyno graph. I've tuned enough of these vehicles with different combinations to know where they make power. But it really helps to actually see a dyno graph so that the shop or who ever you are ordering the TC from knows what your engine is actually producing. Not everyone can have a dyno graph though. This is way I have a spec order sheet that I require you to fill out on line. Or when you call I ask you a lot of questions, I'm filling out the form for you. Beware of shops or businesses that don't do this and tell you what they want to sell you, "I have the perfect TC for you" before they even get all the vehicle specs. Also most Stangers don't settle for a few bolt ons. To avoid buying something that you will have to replace later you should do your homework. What do you really want your vehicle to do? What will the end product be. If you just have a few bolt ons now and are planning a NOS or forced induction later then you need to either purchase a TC for that final setup. Or purchase a TC that will be able to work with that combination but at the stall you want or need now. Then later you can send the TC back for a restall for the final phase. This is where a lot of people make a mistake. They purchase something like a B & M Hole Shot that can't hold up to some serious hp. Then they end up spending more money on a new TC vice having the one they have restalled. TC's such as the Hole Shot or Edge are basically considered disposable TCs. </p><p></p><p> Stall speeds really depend on the what you are wanting out of the car as well as the vehicle combinations. You'll want a higher stall for an NA vehicle vice a blown one. Then there's a difference between a positive displacement and centrifugal or turbo. The weight of the vehicle is also something to take in. For instance I cater to the CV/Marauder and Tbird crowd also. A 3000 stall in a Mustang really wakes them up for a simple daily driver with simple mods. This would be considers a mild stall and something that you wife or GF wouldn't complain about when driving. The same 3000 stall in a CV will still stall at the 3000 rpms but it won't be as noticeable due to the weight difference. I've taken a the same 3000 rpm TC from a Mustang and then installed it into a Town Car. Both vehicles had the same mods, the Mustang of course has a better exhaust, same power output though. The Mustang would just get sideways from the launch throwing you back where as the Town Car would just produce a two wheel squeal and gently plant you in the seat. The Town Car actually would benefit from a 3200 stall over the 3000.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SnakedMark8, post: 298379, member: 10115"] You brought up a good point about the dyno graph. I've tuned enough of these vehicles with different combinations to know where they make power. But it really helps to actually see a dyno graph so that the shop or who ever you are ordering the TC from knows what your engine is actually producing. Not everyone can have a dyno graph though. This is way I have a spec order sheet that I require you to fill out on line. Or when you call I ask you a lot of questions, I'm filling out the form for you. Beware of shops or businesses that don't do this and tell you what they want to sell you, "I have the perfect TC for you" before they even get all the vehicle specs. Also most Stangers don't settle for a few bolt ons. To avoid buying something that you will have to replace later you should do your homework. What do you really want your vehicle to do? What will the end product be. If you just have a few bolt ons now and are planning a NOS or forced induction later then you need to either purchase a TC for that final setup. Or purchase a TC that will be able to work with that combination but at the stall you want or need now. Then later you can send the TC back for a restall for the final phase. This is where a lot of people make a mistake. They purchase something like a B & M Hole Shot that can't hold up to some serious hp. Then they end up spending more money on a new TC vice having the one they have restalled. TC's such as the Hole Shot or Edge are basically considered disposable TCs. Stall speeds really depend on the what you are wanting out of the car as well as the vehicle combinations. You'll want a higher stall for an NA vehicle vice a blown one. Then there's a difference between a positive displacement and centrifugal or turbo. The weight of the vehicle is also something to take in. For instance I cater to the CV/Marauder and Tbird crowd also. A 3000 stall in a Mustang really wakes them up for a simple daily driver with simple mods. This would be considers a mild stall and something that you wife or GF wouldn't complain about when driving. The same 3000 stall in a CV will still stall at the 3000 rpms but it won't be as noticeable due to the weight difference. I've taken a the same 3000 rpm TC from a Mustang and then installed it into a Town Car. Both vehicles had the same mods, the Mustang of course has a better exhaust, same power output though. The Mustang would just get sideways from the launch throwing you back where as the Town Car would just produce a two wheel squeal and gently plant you in the seat. The Town Car actually would benefit from a 3200 stall over the 3000. [/QUOTE]
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96-04 - 2V Specific
The Torque Converter Thread
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