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xcal3 question
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<blockquote data-quote="SnakedMark8" data-source="post: 298335" data-attributes="member: 10115"><p>I didn't say anything about reseting the EEC. That's going to do nothing for you except to clear the adaptive memory. You are going to need the tools for an engine balance test, compression and leak down and wide band O2 recording device. These tools are not cheap and most weekend/hobbyist don't have anything like these. You need to be able to log, read or see the fuel pressure while the vehicle us under load at WOT beside just at idle. Checking at idle with and without the vacuum line is the first step. Your best bet I think is to take it to a shop and have them put it on the diagnostic machine. This would eliminate a lot of guessing. Then you can ask them to explain what they fine besides direct you to what needs to be fixed. You don't have to have them do the work which will save you money, your only paying for the diagnostics. This I would consider money well spent in your case.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SnakedMark8, post: 298335, member: 10115"] I didn't say anything about reseting the EEC. That's going to do nothing for you except to clear the adaptive memory. You are going to need the tools for an engine balance test, compression and leak down and wide band O2 recording device. These tools are not cheap and most weekend/hobbyist don't have anything like these. You need to be able to log, read or see the fuel pressure while the vehicle us under load at WOT beside just at idle. Checking at idle with and without the vacuum line is the first step. Your best bet I think is to take it to a shop and have them put it on the diagnostic machine. This would eliminate a lot of guessing. Then you can ask them to explain what they fine besides direct you to what needs to be fixed. You don't have to have them do the work which will save you money, your only paying for the diagnostics. This I would consider money well spent in your case. [/QUOTE]
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