So pretty similar to the other thread same part a power master 200a alternator from summit, I got mine bc I’m running a 1200w Max 600w RMS audio system (both amp and 12” sub power rating) this system is ran separately from the stock Mach 460 system which is still in use the only thing connecting the amp and radio is RCA, I have a kill switch ran from the sub amp positive and remote to the little storage pocket underneath the radio. Now prior to the system I had went through some batteries, all advance auto Die Hard 550CCA batteries bc they were still under warranty, I’ve only had the car for 2 years and it has its 4th battery, the life of each gradually increases.
With the stock alternator and a test song the sub would cut out at 24, obv making my battery gauge very active, and obv dimming lights. the 200a alternator did the exact same and actually started making my voltage spike on startup and drop when I used turn signals and all the lights change brightness in sync, it even made the rpm fluctuate in sync with the use of my turn signals (I do have a sequential taillight turn signal kit and halo headlights and I assume the voltage spike is fine and that it’s just the alternator reacting to the rpm jump bc it always goes back to where it was before the spike) I also had upgraded to 4 gauge wire with 250a fuse from alternator to fuse box, 4gauge wire from fuse box to battery, 4gauge ground from battery to driver front side of the motor, I used the stock alternator wire without the fuse link (so 6gauge) as a ground from the passenger side of the motor to the front hood chassis area, and a 4guage ground from the top of the alternator underneath the plug wire bracket to the passenger side of the motor (I can’t get the alternator in the right spot for where they want the ground at , bc the bolt, even shaved down touches the intake and angles the alternator ever so slightly, but there is a ground connected to the case)
Obviously I thought the fluctuation was fishy so I had both alternators tested the stock one wouldn’t spin on the tester and the 200a failed in the light circuit test so I threw the stock one back in while I exchanged the new one, I knew it worked enough when I pulled it and sure enough it worked for the few days I needed to, except the voltage fluctuation with the turn signals was still there.
When the new one came in I cleaned the throttle body (it was bad) changed my battery terminals and added a 0gauge ground wire from the battery to the rear side of the motor mount, I did not remove the factory ground from the battery the the front side of the motor mount. I did not do the iac relearn bc it was late but it put me in gear right after startup and otw home I noticed the voltage fluctuation was still there(I have a Walker brand iac module and ever since I got it if I didn’t do the relearn right wouldn’t be able to shift into a moving gear. if anyone knows the quality of this brand lmk cause I’m sketch ab it, I got it off Amazon if anyone wants to look it was like $45) I have the amp connected to the battery but off via the kill switch and have not turned it on AT ALL with this new alternator, (I’ve started to blow the box apart bc it was already starting, knocked the amp off the box it was mounted to and want to re do the ground terminal and the end of the ground wire I also want to get a capacitor for the system so it’s not pulling as spastically) I know the possibility of me receiving another faulty alternator, although low, is possible but could does anyone have any ideas? Or am I being wrongly skeptical ab the voltage activity, and if I am why is my rpm audibly and visually changing?
Thank you and sorry for the long read between this and my truck I’ve had it
With the stock alternator and a test song the sub would cut out at 24, obv making my battery gauge very active, and obv dimming lights. the 200a alternator did the exact same and actually started making my voltage spike on startup and drop when I used turn signals and all the lights change brightness in sync, it even made the rpm fluctuate in sync with the use of my turn signals (I do have a sequential taillight turn signal kit and halo headlights and I assume the voltage spike is fine and that it’s just the alternator reacting to the rpm jump bc it always goes back to where it was before the spike) I also had upgraded to 4 gauge wire with 250a fuse from alternator to fuse box, 4gauge wire from fuse box to battery, 4gauge ground from battery to driver front side of the motor, I used the stock alternator wire without the fuse link (so 6gauge) as a ground from the passenger side of the motor to the front hood chassis area, and a 4guage ground from the top of the alternator underneath the plug wire bracket to the passenger side of the motor (I can’t get the alternator in the right spot for where they want the ground at , bc the bolt, even shaved down touches the intake and angles the alternator ever so slightly, but there is a ground connected to the case)
Obviously I thought the fluctuation was fishy so I had both alternators tested the stock one wouldn’t spin on the tester and the 200a failed in the light circuit test so I threw the stock one back in while I exchanged the new one, I knew it worked enough when I pulled it and sure enough it worked for the few days I needed to, except the voltage fluctuation with the turn signals was still there.
When the new one came in I cleaned the throttle body (it was bad) changed my battery terminals and added a 0gauge ground wire from the battery to the rear side of the motor mount, I did not remove the factory ground from the battery the the front side of the motor mount. I did not do the iac relearn bc it was late but it put me in gear right after startup and otw home I noticed the voltage fluctuation was still there(I have a Walker brand iac module and ever since I got it if I didn’t do the relearn right wouldn’t be able to shift into a moving gear. if anyone knows the quality of this brand lmk cause I’m sketch ab it, I got it off Amazon if anyone wants to look it was like $45) I have the amp connected to the battery but off via the kill switch and have not turned it on AT ALL with this new alternator, (I’ve started to blow the box apart bc it was already starting, knocked the amp off the box it was mounted to and want to re do the ground terminal and the end of the ground wire I also want to get a capacitor for the system so it’s not pulling as spastically) I know the possibility of me receiving another faulty alternator, although low, is possible but could does anyone have any ideas? Or am I being wrongly skeptical ab the voltage activity, and if I am why is my rpm audibly and visually changing?
Thank you and sorry for the long read between this and my truck I’ve had it
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