Hi all. I just acquired a 98 Cobra roller with about 75k miles on it. The car is missing all of the drivetrain, including Bilstein shocks, lowering springs, unknown gears, and some missing computer components. I just sourced a 98 Cobra engine and matching T45 Cobra spec trans. I was also able to source a spec stage 3 clutch and an OEM 8-bolt flywheel. I am trying to piece the car back together but have a few questions about wiring, gears, suspension, and other miscellaneous stuff. Before my ownership, I came to the conclusion that it was a supercharged car, and it blew up, resulting in the drivetrain being yanked. The car has sat for close to a decade now, according to the previous owner. Brakes are going to have to be done, but should I go with new calipers or try to make the old stuff work? As far as brakes, is the powerstop brand as good as everyone makes it out to be, or should I go stock? As far as suspension goes, the car has been sitting for a while. Should I throw new shocks in it, or should I see if what it has is at least somewhat usable? I believe they were new before the car sat. The rear diff also has a new cover, so should I assume that it has been opened up and changed? As far as wiring goes, it is missing the kick panel computer, and the crash censor is unplugged. Do I have to worry about the air bags deploying if I put power into the car? I am also looking to put headers on the car. I found some cheapo eBay special long tubes for under $400. Has anyone had any luck with them? Are there also any parts I should replace with the aftermarket rather than going OEM? It seems like LMR and CJ Pony Parts are my best friends when it comes to this stuff. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. Even if you have some tips that don't pertain to my questions, I'd still love to hear them (besides selling it and buying a running car; I've heard that before :/ ).
RAU03MACH
Legend
Long tube headers nice but you might get upset with them
I always go shorty headers les fighting them
As far as getting parts
MPS 770-725-5700
Leon Should have some stuff in stock used parts but in good shape electrical wire and computer they might have
You should be ok on the air bag
I always go shorty headers les fighting them
As far as getting parts
MPS 770-725-5700
Leon Should have some stuff in stock used parts but in good shape electrical wire and computer they might have
You should be ok on the air bag
Leave the ebay parts on ebay where they belong. Any 96-98 GT or cobra rear end suspension will work. If you're starting with suspension at all, might as well hit Maximum Motorsports and get the good stuff. (insert Joe Dirt gif here)
Powerstop would not be my first choice. I tend to stick with Baer or Brembo rotors on performance cars and for pads I use EBC yellowstuff on Mustangs. They are mega dusty but they have insane cold bite and fantastic fade resistance at a price competitive with other brand models with high performance/racing pedigrees. With rotors all the blanks are made in China and they're basically cast iron, more of the same basically. It's the heat treating where the metal meets the meat. Cheapo brands that say things like "track day rotors" might as well say "We only harden them just at the surface so don't bother turning them." Baer and Brembo have treated me well. I would not bother with slotting or drilling and if you use the pads I've listed (or ceramic which I consider unsuitable to performance cars), there's no point in drilled/slotted anyway. If any brake lines were left open then I would replace them entirely. No telling how many bugs crawled up in there. Calipers are cheaper than a new car so I would replace those rather than try to recondition them. If there's one place not to be a cheapskate, it's the brakes. Ask me how I know.
If you're going to do a proper restoration to a B-head car, I would start by ditching the IMRC's. Otherwise, not a bad time to do a C-head update. C-heads are really cheap nowadays.
If the diff cover is not OEM, it's definitely 100% been opened up. It probably has gears so open up and check. There might be a non-stock diff in there too or someone might have done a ghetto locker to it and welded the spider gears.
Wiring, find OEM harnesses. They're around, pretty easy to find on farcebook.
Powerstop would not be my first choice. I tend to stick with Baer or Brembo rotors on performance cars and for pads I use EBC yellowstuff on Mustangs. They are mega dusty but they have insane cold bite and fantastic fade resistance at a price competitive with other brand models with high performance/racing pedigrees. With rotors all the blanks are made in China and they're basically cast iron, more of the same basically. It's the heat treating where the metal meets the meat. Cheapo brands that say things like "track day rotors" might as well say "We only harden them just at the surface so don't bother turning them." Baer and Brembo have treated me well. I would not bother with slotting or drilling and if you use the pads I've listed (or ceramic which I consider unsuitable to performance cars), there's no point in drilled/slotted anyway. If any brake lines were left open then I would replace them entirely. No telling how many bugs crawled up in there. Calipers are cheaper than a new car so I would replace those rather than try to recondition them. If there's one place not to be a cheapskate, it's the brakes. Ask me how I know.
If you're going to do a proper restoration to a B-head car, I would start by ditching the IMRC's. Otherwise, not a bad time to do a C-head update. C-heads are really cheap nowadays.
If the diff cover is not OEM, it's definitely 100% been opened up. It probably has gears so open up and check. There might be a non-stock diff in there too or someone might have done a ghetto locker to it and welded the spider gears.
Wiring, find OEM harnesses. They're around, pretty easy to find on farcebook.
Musturd
Post Whore
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 10,500
- Reaction score
- 2,267
Can’t go wrong with long tubes especially on a mod motor . Shortys net you virtually no gains
Long tubes sounded awesome on my 96 but damn do they hang low and were torture to install. And that was when I was in my 20's. Lol
Musturd
Post Whore
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 10,500
- Reaction score
- 2,267
Oh they suck dick to install on mod motors
100%
tbird462002
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2018
- Messages
- 12
- Reaction score
- 2
and good luck getting a starter or trans out with them on....just went through this nightmare
And I 96blak54 dub thee Sir tbird462002 for enduring long tubes on a modular!....LOL
had shorties on my Cobra and my Bullitt and was happy with them. may not gain as much in power but what you gain in the install is well worth the difference in my opinion as well as in the wallet. My Cobra had Bassani mid lengths on it when I got it which is better than the long tubes in the install but still a pain and still a pain with the starter. why I took them off and put on shorties.
