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blackpony

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well i got on hotchskis website and they are installed correctly... im probably just gonna buy a different set... havent been very happy with them anyways. ever since i installed them they have been rattling... sounds like two pieces pf metal hitting one another.... they have rubber bushings and i have hear bad things about that style... seems everyone likes the bearing/solid style better. so.....
 

ReplicaR

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If you gonna switch over, get Maximum Motorsports plates. Mine did not make any noise on stock suspension, lowered, and on coilovers.
 

MustangChris

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i have 4 bolt MMs.... my only suggestion is to read the instructions, take your time, and double check before drilling anything... my passenger side didnt go so well on the drilling and at the end of the day i have a ziplock baggy of extra parts and the plates were flip flopped.... ... . we didnt take our time like we should have.
 

GDTrumbo

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^ Good advice. Before I installed my MM panhard kit, I must have read those instructions 10 to 15 times over a week period. I kept thinking, do I really want to go through this operation? I took my time and went 1 step at a time. Even with that, it took me 11.5 hours overall, on my lonesome.

GT
 

MustangChris

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yea... i read the instructions too, but when it came to install some of my friends weren't quite as anal as I am... lol...

i tend to read the instructions and go very slow... it just prevents problems, plus this way you're going to have better luck remembering what you did... my friend was getting frustrated wiht my when we did my rear springs because i kept saying "keep the pictail toward to the drivers side!" ... "I WILL!!!! IT WILL SETTLE ANYWAYS!!!" :p
 

GDTrumbo

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You were right! Pigtails to the left! The details will kill ya. This is 1 reason I do my own mod's/upgrades.

I do a mod and spend some time driving it to work out any bugs there might be and THEN move on to the next mod.

GT
 

MustangChris

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yea, thats how i try and do it too, except its because of my low budget... i can only do one thing at a time...

i try to do my own mods when i can... the only thing that sucks is when it goes wrong and i dont know why... if a shop does it, i can blame them... but when my idle isnt right because i put on a new TB... then what? lol :p i guess tahts how you learn, right?
 

GDawg

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You guys need to look at your CC plates to see if they are installed correctly.

Caster-Camber-Plates-3-640.jpg
 

97blackgt

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I just saved myself 200$ on the CC plates and drilled out the lower strut bolt holes. Alignment can be set to whatever i need it to be. Takes a little more time but works just as well.
 

Goindeafonmtx

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ReplicaR said:
Speaking of negative camber, as of lately, I've been running -2.1 degrees on both sides, and the tire is being worn pretty evenly. The only thing you have to set right at that point is toe. Mine is 1/16th inch in.
How many miles do you have on it? What tires?

I set mine up to -2.5 degrees, toed out 1/16 running a RE-01R. I haven't put enough miles on mine to notice any abnormal wear. I'm just curious to what you run.
 

white95

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blackpony said:
right now the front suspension has a tubular k-member, hotchkis cc plates, off set rack bushings and factory springs with 1/2 coil cut...

Which K member did you use?
 

ReplicaR

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Goindeafonmtx said:
How many miles do you have on it? What tires?

I set mine up to -2.5 degrees, toed out 1/16 running a RE-01R. I haven't put enough miles on mine to notice any abnormal wear. I'm just curious to what you run.

I don't remember when was it that I aligned the car last, but I did it before march NASA event, so it has to be 3 months worth of driving and 3 track days by now. The tire is still worn pretty even. It's a 275/40R17 Sumitomo HTR ZIII. Not a bad tire on the street, but not impressed with it at the track. I'll be running RA1s soon, so I'll see how those are, and might have to play with camber some more.

From what I've noticed it is mostly the toe setting that put heavy tread wear on the tire rather than camber, speaking with in reasonable amounts of course. I still have factory control arms, so I anticipate that the control arms will move back under deflection the the toe angle will zero itself out once in motion. I used to run toe out, and while it is theoretically better for steering responce (I can't tell the difference honestly), it really wore the inside out like crazy.
 

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