IRS vs Live Axle

twovalveterror

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I believe I saw you post that you're running 4.56? you'll most likely be between 2,500-3,000 on the interstate, which shouldn't be too bad. road racing you're in the powerband for extended periods of time (5-7k), which is what gets people in trouble from my understanding.

of course, if you put a lot of faith in mm, they claim that any IRS that is driven hard should be equipped with a diff cooler. if you're worried, I'd buy it for the peace of mind. I only have 3.73's but I'm not going to lose sleep over it, and I plan on racing occasionally.
 

Gallows

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Yeah it has 4:56's but a T56 is also in the works but I need a clutch and flywheel to finish that project. I don't know if the extra gear will drop the rpm's very much but unless the extra noise bothers me I won't be changing gears. I looked at the cooler on the Maximum Motorsports site and it is $1500 with all the goodies. I'd like to know for sure what the temps are before committing that much money on a cooler.
 

twovalveterror

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I don't think the t-56 will make a huge difference in your cruising speed. the t-45 has a .67 5th gear, while the t-56 has a .63. so a little, but not much. the t-56 does have a much more 4.56 friendly 1st gear though. (unless the t-56 you're using is a non production gearset)

I too wish I could know what kind of temps the IRS hits. MM has one, but I think it requires their cooler too. I might get one myself later, but I'm willing to risk it right now. I don't think you'll have any problem on the highway. but again, without real time data, we're just taking a calculated risk.
 

Gallows

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The T56 is a 03/04 Cobra piece but has some upgraded internal pieces. I wonder if I could easily tap in a temp guage to get a feel for what real world temps are? Something I am going to look into.
 

Gallows

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I had a look at that but it is an inline adapter so that won't work. I also don't remember what it has for a rear covers. There may be something on it that I can adapt to.
 

twovalveterror

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I don't think you'd want anything on the rear cover. it would have to be at the lowest point to even have a chance at an accurate reading, and the lower portion of the rear cover has very little free space if you run a brace, which only leaves using the bottom of the housing in my eyes. that's why I believe the in line sensor would work best, I don't know how much of the fluid is at the bottom of the housing when the gears are spinning, or if it will stay there long enough to ensure accuracy.

but you're right, I failed to realize that the in line wont work without something to move the fluid. keep me posted on any ideas you come up with. I'll have to sit and think on it myself, when I'm not fighting the weight of my eyelids!
 

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