RioRed96 248a - Turbo 5.4 2v Swap

OP
OP
garrittpwl

garrittpwl

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
273
Reaction score
261
Location
Indiana
Sharp hood, does it add a lot of clearance for the engine? And are you still rocking the stock grey cloth seats? How do or did you like them? Ive sat in the sn95 leathers but wondered the comfort difference betweem the cloth ones and the tweed looking jobs
Not sure on exact clearance but I'm on 1 inch kmember spacers as well. I kept the cloth seats as they're specific to the 248a model car. I don't mind them.
 

07GtS197

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2015
Messages
2,635
Reaction score
996
Location
Fort Myers, Fl
I’ve had both and I prefer the cloth as well. The bolsters on the leather doesn’t hold me causing me to move around, like Blak. And leather gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter. It looks nice looking though.
 
OP
OP
garrittpwl

garrittpwl

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
273
Reaction score
261
Location
Indiana
Update. Slapped turbo on 5.4. Installed engine. started engine with turbo. Found ticking in top end. Removed engine again.

I think my combo of comp 278 cams, ferrea valves, ford gt followers and stock 2v lash adjusters is causing the follower to make contact with the lash adjusters. Need to order the ford GT lash adjusters to fix said issue.
 

96blak54

Moderator
Staff
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
10,043
Reaction score
2,884
Location
In the shop
Most people (99%) think engine oil weights set by the manufacturer is for the entire engine design, which in most cases is true, but not in the Ford Gt case. The 0w-50 is set for GT's tiny intake lasher. This heavy weight is what it takes for that lasher to perform like it should and in turn causes all other engine parameters to be compensated. Meaning the normal modular size lasher for the exhaust in the GT would also need to be designed for 0w-50 oil.

If you are using any oil weight less than 0w-50 with the GT lashers, the lasher can really never perform like it should. You are most likely using something like 5w-20 or 5w-30 and this thinner oil will cause the GT lasher bleed rate to be very high. Its simple hydraulics, really. And at low rpm oil psi, the lasher doesnt over come the valve spring and follower 1.8 ratio leverage applied to the lasher....roughly 200lbs. And if you have higher rate aftermarket valve springs, add that on top of the 200lbs.

All this is fantastic using the GT lashers on the exhaust side as it would allow variable valve openings with the modulars big cam lobes, but again they would be noisy. Especially at low rpm. Get the rpm up and the noise most likely goes away.

FYI: Oil supply to the lashers is only 15psi at high rpm

Also note their is a good amount of wiggle room for factory valve seat to valve tip height. Just incase your new valves are shorter. This could almost be any amount because the lashers them self have a ton of stroke and could compensate any gap. The only negative would be a substantial long valve length, keeping the lasher to bottomed out, which in turn would keep the valve open all the time. Lasher couldnt do its thing. Engine run like crap.

Dont assume all ford modular lashers ever made are the same. I assure you, they are not. Most people (99%) dont understand the modular valve train or the

My suggestion, return all the stock lasher and followers back into the heads. But 1st Take a big set of pliers, a heat gun, and bleed out the old oil. Heating the lasher to 200degrees and compressing it will open your mind
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
garrittpwl

garrittpwl

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
273
Reaction score
261
Location
Indiana
Most people (99%) think engine oil weights set by the manufacturer is for the entire engine design, which in most cases is true, but not in the Ford Gt case. The 0w-50 is set for GT's tiny
>.....>>>>>>>>>>
<<<<<<My suggestion, return all the stock lasher and followers back into the heads. But 1st Take a big set of pliers, a heat gun, and bleed out the old oil. Heating the lasher to 200degrees and compressing it will open your mind
is 6 months too long to reply?

I post a ton on FB and IG so most of you guys have probably seen the following;

Spring 2023 update:
I ended up with the GT exhaust lash adjusters on all 16 valves. I was having some slight contact but it turns out that wasn't my sound. I had an entire weld that was missed on one of the collectors. Fixed that and no more tick. Thanks to that tick I discovered the lash adjuster issue.

Summer 2023 update:
Car runs great on a base tune from Blankenship but he wont turn the timing up without it on the dyno. Decided we wanted to tune it outselves so I went with SCT's pro racer package and have a local friend/tuner help me build a good tune.
Fought the SCT pro racer tune for 2 months to no avail. Wouldn't respond to any changes. Always rich no matter what.
I really think there was an issue with the base strategy file that SCT sent us.
I pulled on a local tuner's arm who had built me a good tune in the past hard enough that he sold me an unlocked version that I could edit and tweak on myself. His fuel table and timing table were nearly identical to what we'd setup before but again, I think the SCT strat file that was sent to us originally had problems.
and with all that finally sorted, car runs absolutely amazing. Drove it 1000 miles in August.

Fall 2023 to date:
Beginning of Sept developed a bottom end knock. Sounded like a rod and was definitely not a pulley. Disassembled the engine to find that the reluctor wheel was just barely loose and had slopped out its keyway. Spent 4 days disassembling/reassembling to fix this and put it back on the road. Car is faster than ever, makes about 13psi at full boost on the on3 70mm.

Hope to put it on a dyno soon to see the numbers.

I plan on leaving the 4.10 in the car to just burn down the tires until I can afford to put a good trans in it (running the stock t45 right now).

Next spring it'll get a good trans and likely a 3.55.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
garrittpwl

garrittpwl

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
273
Reaction score
261
Location
Indiana
Trans is still in the works. Should have a TKX by the end of April in the car. Working on brakes the past few days. Going to TBM F5s in the front on a 14 inch rotor, and Wilwoods in back on a 13 inch rotor. Bought a ton of parts off a kid who's dad used to auto X and has since passed away. Ended up with all kinds of goods include the tbm F5 brake setup, a Griggs Torque Arm, wilwoods, a Torsen diff, Moser axles, another axle housing. Troy Higginson was the original owner of all these parts. Excited to get them installed on my car. *note the brake photo is a stock 11 inch rotor. Was just test fitting the wheel to caliper clearance.
1000001078.jpg
1000001175.jpg
1000001176.jpg
 

96blak54

Moderator
Staff
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
10,043
Reaction score
2,884
Location
In the shop
WOW!
That is some awesome upgrades!

What type of rotors are you going to run?
 
OP
OP
garrittpwl

garrittpwl

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
273
Reaction score
261
Location
Indiana
WOW!
That is some awesome upgrades!

What type of rotors are you going to run?
I'm fairly certain the 12/13 Gt500 rotor will work in front. Haven't installed the back to get measurements yet. I've got a literal 60lb tote of custom brackets that the original owner of these parts had made so I can fab/modify to fit about anything.
 
OP
OP
garrittpwl

garrittpwl

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
273
Reaction score
261
Location
Indiana
Recent new modifications;
MM Panhard Bar
MM Extreme Duty Adjustable LCAs
Griggs MTA6000 Torque Arm
Fixed my fuel sending unit (on3 one failed 750 miles into the turbo build).
Installed new MOOG heavy duty u-joints
Tossed my "oe napa" rear shocks that I've been running since I originally lowered the car in the trash.
Installed a set of Tokico HP blues that I had laying around instead for the stock replacements.
Removed 5.4 badges and installed Saleen 331 badges (just to be different yet still raise the car show eyebrow).
Built a new 8.8 for the car, 31 spline moser axles, Torsen T2R diff, 3.55 gear. Shouldn't have to shift into 5th to complete a quarter mile now :D

Waiting on a few fittings and lines to button up the 14 inch rotor/TBM F5 calipers on all 4 corners.
Also waiting on pads for them. Ordered Hawk HPS pads, as they have a rep for being good and being low dust

Current "on the shelf" items;
QuickTime bellhousing for a TKX (already have it)
Short throw shifter for a TKX (already have it)
Stifflers TKX crossmember (need to order)
TKX Transmission (funds set aside for this but waiting to get car running driving for the summer before purchase).

Side note; @white95 anyway I can get this post moved back to the build ups section? I have a engine swap specific thread but this one has been the dedicated build thread since I bought the car in 2016

423132284_10168555558565167_6480161467907066988_n.jpg
430330977_10168540751860167_3604449950765730700_n.jpg
432476599_10168543584610167_1872460085772395424_n (1).jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
garrittpwl

garrittpwl

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
273
Reaction score
261
Location
Indiana
Dang thats alot of go fast goodies!
I forgot about the whole axle part too hahaha.

New axle installed, welded tubes, 31 spline moser axles, torsen t2r diff and a new frpp 3.55 gear.....

Getting my wear pattern right really kicked my ass because I started with an empty housing and had no OEM shims to go off. I swear I jacked with it a couple hours a day for a week straight
 

Snorky

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2022
Messages
828
Reaction score
696
I forgot about the whole axle part too hahaha.

New axle installed, welded tubes, 31 spline moser axles, torsen t2r diff and a new frpp 3.55 gear.....

Getting my wear pattern right really kicked my ass because I started with an empty housing and had no OEM shims to go off. I swear I jacked with it a couple hours a day for a week straight
It will all be well worth it, faster spool in via more load, higher mph per gear, less spinning so you retain the load and boost. Thr torque arm will heavily increase straight line and cornering traction, and improve braking too. The car will feel good, just make sure your rear meats clear the inner fenders on heavy suspension articulation. My 17x10.5 with 315 r888 were contacting the inner fender so I had to dtick upper and lower isos in the car to raise it up some to clear.
 
OP
OP
garrittpwl

garrittpwl

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
273
Reaction score
261
Location
Indiana
She's back on the road, kinda. Rear tires are rubbing the inner quarters still just barely. Gonna add 1/4 spacers to get some breathing room. Exhaust is damn near on the ground at the center y pipe. I could deal with this if I didn't have incline into my garage. Gonna run a single muffler for now to make it do-able. may make a new y pipe for future duals.

Went to my favorite spot to snag a few photos of it.

435273199_10168601388730167_7268560285976737426_n.jpg

435201033_10168601388605167_4007724376434565212_n.jpg

435203558_10168601388250167_5508105899814219210_n.jpg
 

Musturd

Post Whore
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
10,504
Reaction score
2,271
So many nice parts , this things going to handle and stop awesome .
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
77,520
Messages
1,504,193
Members
14,985
Latest member
Suprasuavy

Members online

Top