Spark plug replacement
- Thread starter Pallgor
- Start date
Bronco2Fan
Member
If it's anything like my 03, wasn't hard at all. I didn't remove anything but the COPs. I don't know about the 96 model.
RAU03MACH
Legend
First remove the spark plug wire
if you have compressor with air blow gun blow out the dirt from spark plug holes
Then remove the spark plugs
Put anti seize on the new plug thread
Install plug one at a time
I take my time doing them
if you have compressor with air blow gun blow out the dirt from spark plug holes
Then remove the spark plugs
Put anti seize on the new plug thread
Install plug one at a time
I take my time doing them
^
Great info
Great info
ttocs
Post Whore
then sit and wonder in amazement at how the anti seize has managed to get on nearly every part of your body....
garrittpwl
Active Member
Also do this with a cold engine and install the plugs with minimum torque requirements. Stripped heads come from over tightened plugs
RAU03MACH
Legend
I will seat mine hand tight
ttocs
Post Whore
I am always paranoid about cross threading them on the start and hold them by the tip to try and get everything lined up... If it don't turn by hand you don't want more torque on it.
Mustang5L5
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Little trick i do is to take a peice of rubber hose and fit that over the top of the spark plug. Helps lower the plug down and then you can spin it in by hand. If there's any resistance, the plug will stop spinning on the hose. Really helps with lining the plug up and avoiding cross threading.
I go snug with a 6" rachet and no more.
I have a few beginner's questions.
Is cross-threading the spark plugs such a delicate issue with the iron heads of my car, too? Or is it more sensitive with the aluminium heads?
I replaced the spark plugs on my car like 15 years ago (at that point it was my mums car) and I don't know how careful I was with torquing.
This brings me to another question: do spark plugs age also while not running the car? 15 years is a long time, but the car ran in this period since then maybe 5-7k miles max. Shall I replace them already? Or you can tell it only by inspecting the plugs?
Is cross-threading the spark plugs such a delicate issue with the iron heads of my car, too? Or is it more sensitive with the aluminium heads?
I replaced the spark plugs on my car like 15 years ago (at that point it was my mums car) and I don't know how careful I was with torquing.
This brings me to another question: do spark plugs age also while not running the car? 15 years is a long time, but the car ran in this period since then maybe 5-7k miles max. Shall I replace them already? Or you can tell it only by inspecting the plugs?
Mustang5L5
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Iron heads are more forgiving. Install them by hand, thread down as far as you can by hand and then walk them snug with the rachet and then tighten.
The 5.0 heads have the plugs hanging off where they are easier to access vs the 4.6 which is recessed down in a bore. Easier to start the iron plug crooked in the aluminum head since you need an extension and just cross-thread. Always hand start ANY bolt by hand a few threads before putting a tool on it. Best practice overall.
The 5.0 heads have the plugs hanging off where they are easier to access vs the 4.6 which is recessed down in a bore. Easier to start the iron plug crooked in the aluminum head since you need an extension and just cross-thread. Always hand start ANY bolt by hand a few threads before putting a tool on it. Best practice overall.
Maybe shoot us some pics of what’s in the way, both sides.
Definitely worth your while to research the CORRECT, RECOMMENDED torque spec for your specific application. Make sure they’re each gapped to spec. Many plugs come “pre-gapped”, but double check for accuracy to be sure. Check the bottoms again in 500-1,000 miles, make sure they’re NOT burnt toast! And +1 on the anti-seize. A dab across the threads down one side will do it and yes, it magically gets everywhere. It remains an unsolved phenomenon!!
Definitely worth your while to research the CORRECT, RECOMMENDED torque spec for your specific application. Make sure they’re each gapped to spec. Many plugs come “pre-gapped”, but double check for accuracy to be sure. Check the bottoms again in 500-1,000 miles, make sure they’re NOT burnt toast! And +1 on the anti-seize. A dab across the threads down one side will do it and yes, it magically gets everywhere. It remains an unsolved phenomenon!!
RAU03MACH
Legend
Aluminum heads you need to pay attention when installing
With tighten and knowing that feel of oh shit I just crossthreded it
With tighten and knowing that feel of oh shit I just crossthreded it
RAU03MACH
Legend
Just be glad your not dealing with a 2 piece of shit plug
RAU03MACH
Legend
On the 3v
MSD 1 piece
MSD 1 piece
ttocs
Post Whore
yea to initially thread them I always hold the tip of the electrode while I get it started. If it doesn't go in like that then it needs to be adjusted.
Mustang5L5
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On a 2V it’s not bad at all. You just need to pull the spark plug boot (or the COP on the 99-04 cars) and the plugs are exposed
Found you a perfect “how to” video on YouTube. Did a Search on “1996 Mustang 4.6 spark plug change” and a 7-8 minute video by RykerDude answers all your questions and walks you through it.
Good luck!
