Which Subframe Connectors?

[ReplicaR]

Doors will not close all the way. The gaps will be off... well more off when they already are. We are talking about mustangs here lol.

 

[NXcoupe]

there really is no way to tell other than if the gap between the 1/4 panel(thats the rear fender to some people), and the door are not straight, or are worse than when you took it in. It is much worse and more dramatic on a convertible if it is welded incorrectly. Using jackstands under the outside of the ball joint and under the rear axle will work too, then use the floor jack to lift and position the sub into place, that straightens the car out and realigns it as it was new. The difference is, when you let it back down, it won't ever sag again. Hope this helps, didn't mean to confuse.

 

[MustangChris]

gotcha... ill take a look. mine were amazing when i took it in show-room quality.

 

[ReplicaR]

I don't know about not sagging. I've got MM full lengths, and when I jack it up by one corner, it's still kinda hard to open doors. You need something a lot more intrusive to stop Mustang chassis from flexing.

 

[greenscobie86]

^

Notch/Replica thanks for the great info!

I'm definitely gonna be doing this soon. I appreciate all the great tips.

 

[MustangChris]

jsut do a full roll cage.

 

[vermilion]

or tubed matrix

 

[MustangChris]

lol +1. esp. if you're rich.

 

[ReplicaR]

If you're rich, chances are you're not gonna bother with a mustang in the first place.

 

[MustangChris]

im going to when im rich. lol.

 

[NXcoupe]

I don't know about not sagging. I've got MM full lengths, and when I jack it up by one corner, it's still kinda hard to open doors. You need something a lot more intrusive to stop Mustang chassis from flexing.

Interesting. I can jack my car up and remove one of the jackstands and the car remains level. Unless you lean on it, definately don't want to lean on it. lol. That's why it is important to preload. Take it for what it's worth, lots of people hold it up there and weld away and it will stiffen the suspension and all that. I was just throwing out the proper procedure for installing them. It's the way I have always done it since I used to sell Kenny Brown stuff and he told me how to weld them on. Too bad that place is gone, but maybe he'll start selling stuff again.

 

[Marvin97]

http://store.kennybrown.com/product/chassis-support/extreme-matrix-subframe-system

These are really nice if you are more worried about performance than cost. I know a guy with this setup on his new edge, you can jack up the front fender and it'll pick up the back wheel. If I had to do it again I would save and go this route.

 

[NXcoupe]

Wow! They are back in business? Man, I am going to have to get in touch with them and start carrying their products in the shop again. that matrix brace is the shiznet. I was having to fab them out of 1 X 1 tubing since he was out of business for a few years. The jacking rails make it a breeze to jack up a lowered car and tying the two together really makes it strong.

 

[ReplicaR]

Oh, I'm not saying that it will not remain level, but you can definitely tell the difference between the chassis being flat on the ground and jacked up by one corner. Mustang chassis is pretty weak, when you compare it to other alternatives that are used in road racing. It requires a lot of work, some of which is too much for a street driven vehicle. Making a cage in the street car is simply unsafe with out helmet, seam welding costs most than the whole car. There is just no two ways about it: you either have to build a full competition car, or do as much as you can with out making it unsafe and live with the fact that chassis is not as good as it can be.

Also, my subframes were installed on a drive on lift, by a guy who builds custom race chassis and cages for living. Pretty sure everything was welded on correctly.

 

[MustangChris]

i just got my MMs put in... FANNNNNNTASTIC!!!

 

[spim]

waking up an old thread but its on topic for me
i just had my newly purchased 94 gt in for a once over and the guy suggested subframes as my #1 mod, gave me a # of a guy that can make them locally, said bring em back and he can weld them on for me (experienced shop) however, it seems like most of you seem to steer away from home made and go with MM's... maybe due to convenience, or quality,,i dunno
the savings is minor imho, maybe i'll save $60 + shipping delays,
would you recommend avoiding the "local guy" and just ordering a set of mm's ?
honestly at this point, $60 is nothing when considering that i want it done right... i'm not that worried about saving a few nickles

 

[ReplicaR]

MM has a few bends and curves in it. It's not a fully straight girder. They most likely did it to improve ground clearance with the subframe connectors in place. If you are going to do home made, you might as well do through the floor connectors. They are stiffer, because they connect across the entire floor board, and you will not lose any ground clearance at all.

 

[Paul]

MM is WAY easier than through-the-floor connectors. I can say this empirically because I've had MM connectors, and I did through-the-floor on my notch.

Unless you're making huge power and want a ridiculously rigid structure, the MM setup is more than adequate.

Paul.

 

[lizwithfries]

Not trying to hijack this thread, but is it worth it to put on a set of '04 cobra subframe connectors? They were bolted on, but could we weld them in? They're free to me, I helped put aftermarket ones on the car and the guy asked if I wanted the old ones.

 

[Paul]

Anything is better than nothing.