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2slo95fiveOhs 1994 GT rebuild...UPDATE 5-2! Forged shortblock, fuel upgrades!
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<blockquote data-quote="2slo95fiveoh" data-source="post: 1040228" data-attributes="member: 8966"><p>A little wiring update.</p><p>As stated before, I bought a trunk mount battery kit for the car. While I had mocked up the box and drilled the holes, I hadn't done much with the wiring for it... Until yesterday. I don't even want to be reminded of how much money I spent on 1 gauge welding cable and solder on terminal/spade ends, but once the car is running and I won't have to worry about wires coming loose from connections, not being crimped down right, etc because it was done correctly the first time... then the cost will be worth it. Right now it just stings my bank account a little.</p><p>For those of you that were curious on the differene between 1 ga battery cable and 1 ga welding cable, it's all in the thread count. Although it's a blurry picture, you can still tell that the welding cable (black jacket) has more than double the threads (way finer), than the battery cable (red jacket):</p><p><img src="http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/004-12.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I didn't take pictures of all of them, because it's not super exciting, but I measured twice, and cut once the length of cable for:</p><p>-(ground) battery-to-quad shock bolt</p><p>-(ground) engine mount to sway bar bracket</p><p>-(power) starter to fuse box</p><p>The Taylor relocation kit came with both a positive and a negative cable, but the negative was about 4" shorter than where I wanted it to be, so instead of sacrificing ground location, I just made a new one. The positive cable, however, I am using, and routed through the grommet in the trunk, through a hole in the subframe above the rear axle, and down the length of the subframe to the starter (location).</p><p>Picture of one of the ends all finished (positive fuse box to starter in this case):</p><p><img src="http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/007-11.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The engine bay as it sits now with both positive wires ran to an approximate area where the starter will go (I will solder both of those connectors on when the engine is in the car and I wont have to "guess" length), as well as the starter trigger wire from the fuse box harness (now routed behind the fender. closer to the sway bar):</p><p><img src="http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/011-9.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The trunk battery setup (I still need to drop the gas tank and install the hold down bolts):</p><p><img src="http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/012-5.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><img src="http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/013-4.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Hopefully a paint update tomorrow!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="2slo95fiveoh, post: 1040228, member: 8966"] A little wiring update. As stated before, I bought a trunk mount battery kit for the car. While I had mocked up the box and drilled the holes, I hadn't done much with the wiring for it... Until yesterday. I don't even want to be reminded of how much money I spent on 1 gauge welding cable and solder on terminal/spade ends, but once the car is running and I won't have to worry about wires coming loose from connections, not being crimped down right, etc because it was done correctly the first time... then the cost will be worth it. Right now it just stings my bank account a little. For those of you that were curious on the differene between 1 ga battery cable and 1 ga welding cable, it's all in the thread count. Although it's a blurry picture, you can still tell that the welding cable (black jacket) has more than double the threads (way finer), than the battery cable (red jacket): [IMG]http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/004-12.jpg[/IMG] I didn't take pictures of all of them, because it's not super exciting, but I measured twice, and cut once the length of cable for: -(ground) battery-to-quad shock bolt -(ground) engine mount to sway bar bracket -(power) starter to fuse box The Taylor relocation kit came with both a positive and a negative cable, but the negative was about 4" shorter than where I wanted it to be, so instead of sacrificing ground location, I just made a new one. The positive cable, however, I am using, and routed through the grommet in the trunk, through a hole in the subframe above the rear axle, and down the length of the subframe to the starter (location). Picture of one of the ends all finished (positive fuse box to starter in this case): [IMG]http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/007-11.jpg[/IMG] The engine bay as it sits now with both positive wires ran to an approximate area where the starter will go (I will solder both of those connectors on when the engine is in the car and I wont have to "guess" length), as well as the starter trigger wire from the fuse box harness (now routed behind the fender. closer to the sway bar): [IMG]http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/011-9.jpg[/IMG] The trunk battery setup (I still need to drop the gas tank and install the hold down bolts): [IMG]http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/012-5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq163/Mustang1619/013-4.jpg[/IMG] Hopefully a paint update tomorrow! [/QUOTE]
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