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2V Motor Build/Explosion
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<blockquote data-quote="lwarrior1016" data-source="post: 1521037" data-attributes="member: 20210"><p>we should have balanced the crank to be sure, but it wasn’t absolutely necessary. I’ve run a bunch of them without balancing. They all get coyote rods. I’ve used K1 rods in some stroker ls builds and they hold up fine. </p><p></p><p></p><p>For you 2v build, I would suggest you get a billet 3v/gt500 oil pump from boundary pumps with a 15/16” pick up tube. Definitely balance the rotating assembly, especially if you’re getting the heavier rods. But once you put that heavy rotating assembly in there, don’t be surprised when it revs slower. Arp studs and good bearings. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Now for the magic question, why are you trying to keep the 2v instead of doing a coyote swap? My gen 1 coyote swap made 436rwhp and got 23 mpg. Took my car 11.60 in the 1/4. If you are resourceful it can be done cheaper than you think.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="lwarrior1016, post: 1521037, member: 20210"] we should have balanced the crank to be sure, but it wasn’t absolutely necessary. I’ve run a bunch of them without balancing. They all get coyote rods. I’ve used K1 rods in some stroker ls builds and they hold up fine. For you 2v build, I would suggest you get a billet 3v/gt500 oil pump from boundary pumps with a 15/16” pick up tube. Definitely balance the rotating assembly, especially if you’re getting the heavier rods. But once you put that heavy rotating assembly in there, don’t be surprised when it revs slower. Arp studs and good bearings. Now for the magic question, why are you trying to keep the 2v instead of doing a coyote swap? My gen 1 coyote swap made 436rwhp and got 23 mpg. Took my car 11.60 in the 1/4. If you are resourceful it can be done cheaper than you think. [/QUOTE]
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