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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Mr. OAM" data-source="post: 371032" data-attributes="member: 9816">It's good to ask around and get as much input as possible. :thumb: The ones that recommended anything other than cast, are they selling parts? HHhhmmm.....For some other input, here's a quote from Jensen's Engine Technologies....<a href="http://www.jensensenginetech.com/4-05_tech_tip.html" target="_blank">http://www.jensensenginetech.com/4-05_tech_tip.html</a>For mild street use or stock rebuilds, all we do at the shop is magniflux and regrind them. If a racer wants to use it for bracket racing or limited oval track use, we will remove all of the casting imperfections on the rod throws to eliminate stress risers (a place for cracks to start). We will also cross drill the oil holes to provide better rod bearing lubrication.One of the most important things that we do to a cast iron crankshaft equipped engine is not done to the crankshaft. It is very important that we use rods and pistons that are as lightweight as possible, so they donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t tear the rod journal off of the crank when it tried to stop them and pull them back down the cylinder at top dead center. With the right prep work and a lightweight rod and piston combination, a cast iron crankshaft should handle 500+ HP with no trouble at all.It's because it is not an all out race engine that you are building. It's a street engine that you are going to get on at times. If you know you are going to use nitrous and the potential exists for an occasional lean condition and detonation, or if you see yourself hitting the nitrous often, then for piece of mind a cast steel or nodular iron crank will help you sleep better at night.Steve</blockquote>