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5.0 in 13s?
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<blockquote data-quote="white95" data-source="post: 1237134" data-attributes="member: 10188"><p>Nope, it will shift just fine and it will finally feel like it's balls dropped too. How many miles are on the car?</p><p></p><p><strong>You can do any of these upgrades for under <span style="color: #ff0000">$300</span>:</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong>1] 1.7 roller rockers</p><p></p><p>2] Get good cold air intake [I prefer an Anderson Ford Power Pipe but its your choice]</p><p></p><p>3] B&M Shift kit</p><p></p><p>4] Moates QuarterMaster chip [then contact <a href="http://www.sn95forums.com/member.php?u=8201" target="_blank">Addermk2</a> for a tune]</p><p></p><p>5] adjustable fuel pressure regulator</p><p></p><p>6] tubular rear control arms</p><p></p><p>7] Eibach drag springs</p><p></p><p><strong>You can do any of these upgrades for under <span style="color: #ff0000">$500</span>:</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong>1] Headers [these can be hadf much cheaper if bought used, but YGWYPF]</p><p></p><p>2] H/X pipe</p><p></p><p>3] Gear swap [go ahead and rebuilt the differential and axle bearings while youre at it]</p><p></p><p>4] upgraded stall convertor</p><p></p><p>5] 90/10 drag struts / 70/30 Drag struts</p><p></p><p><strong>What you can do *before* going to the track</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong>1] remove passenger seat, back seat, jack, spare tire, door panels, center console and anything else you can remove</p><p></p><p>2] Borrow [or buy] some skinnies and drag radials</p><p></p><p>3] This is fun.. Find a spot you can peel out and inspect the black marks. WTF? Yes, I'm SERIOUS!!! You wanna see a consistant "patch" that will indicate proper air pressure. Too much air psi will leave a darker in the middle mark and too little psi will be darker on the edges. Without proper traction, this is all pointless.</p><p></p><p>4] remove the "dogbone" from the rear end</p><p></p><p>5] Figure out what RPM you can "brake torque" to without spinning the tires. You want to load the suspension without moving the car at the starting line.</p><p></p><p><strong>Now... The "free" way to go faster at the track:</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p>1] perform the vaunted 5 minute tune up</p><p></p><p>a] fuel up with some 93 [no more than a half of a tank] and with a timing light, bump the timing to 12*-14* advance</p><p>b] swap out the stock 195* thermostat for a 160* unit</p><p>c] install a short belt to bypass the a/c, power steering and smog pumps [if its still there]</p><p>d] disconnect and/or remove the front sway bar for better weight transfer and/or weight savings</p><p></p><p>2] Keep your seat in an upright and other wise straight position. You want the steering wheel to be at your wrists [with your arms extended] and your leg to be bent with it resting on the gas pedal. This is the optimal driving position to control the car,</p><p></p><p>3] contact [MENTION=10730]duff daddy[/MENTION] or <a href="http://www.sn95forums.com/member.php?u=14656" target="_blank">Musturd</a> for more advice beyond this!!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="white95, post: 1237134, member: 10188"] Nope, it will shift just fine and it will finally feel like it's balls dropped too. How many miles are on the car? [B]You can do any of these upgrades for under [COLOR=#ff0000]$300[/COLOR]: [/B]1] 1.7 roller rockers 2] Get good cold air intake [I prefer an Anderson Ford Power Pipe but its your choice] 3] B&M Shift kit 4] Moates QuarterMaster chip [then contact [URL="http://www.sn95forums.com/member.php?u=8201"]Addermk2[/URL] for a tune] 5] adjustable fuel pressure regulator 6] tubular rear control arms 7] Eibach drag springs [B]You can do any of these upgrades for under [COLOR=#ff0000]$500[/COLOR]: [/B]1] Headers [these can be hadf much cheaper if bought used, but YGWYPF] 2] H/X pipe 3] Gear swap [go ahead and rebuilt the differential and axle bearings while youre at it] 4] upgraded stall convertor 5] 90/10 drag struts / 70/30 Drag struts [B]What you can do *before* going to the track [/B]1] remove passenger seat, back seat, jack, spare tire, door panels, center console and anything else you can remove 2] Borrow [or buy] some skinnies and drag radials 3] This is fun.. Find a spot you can peel out and inspect the black marks. WTF? Yes, I'm SERIOUS!!! You wanna see a consistant "patch" that will indicate proper air pressure. Too much air psi will leave a darker in the middle mark and too little psi will be darker on the edges. Without proper traction, this is all pointless. 4] remove the "dogbone" from the rear end 5] Figure out what RPM you can "brake torque" to without spinning the tires. You want to load the suspension without moving the car at the starting line. [B]Now... The "free" way to go faster at the track: [/B] 1] perform the vaunted 5 minute tune up a] fuel up with some 93 [no more than a half of a tank] and with a timing light, bump the timing to 12*-14* advance b] swap out the stock 195* thermostat for a 160* unit c] install a short belt to bypass the a/c, power steering and smog pumps [if its still there] d] disconnect and/or remove the front sway bar for better weight transfer and/or weight savings 2] Keep your seat in an upright and other wise straight position. You want the steering wheel to be at your wrists [with your arms extended] and your leg to be bent with it resting on the gas pedal. This is the optimal driving position to control the car, 3] contact [MENTION=10730]duff daddy[/MENTION] or [URL="http://www.sn95forums.com/member.php?u=14656"]Musturd[/URL] for more advice beyond this!!! [/QUOTE]
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