5.0 in 13s?

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by test-tube-baby, Dec 23, 2013.

  1. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    Hello, was wondering if anyone has gotten an sn95 5.0 aode in the 13s without heads, cam, or intake? Im thinking about seeing how quick I can get mine with mostly bolt ons and gears. oh and no nitrous.. Thats for later!

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  2. Caboose302

    Caboose302 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe with full bolt ons, a shift kit, stall converter, gears, drag suspension and slicks. My 95 AODE is a dog off the line and it has GT40P heads, Trick Flow intake and E303 cam. It's all about suspension and driveline with these autos in my experience.
     
  3. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    What does yours run and what all have you done?

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  4. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    Im trying to get an idea because im not sure which way I want to go yet... I either want to put gt40 heads and intake right away, or do bolt ons right away.. but im not sure if the bolt on would be worth it

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  5. white95

    white95 Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

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    Hands down, 4.10 gears would be my first mod!!
     
  6. Caboose302

    Caboose302 Well-Known Member

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    ^ this

    I don't know what mine will do. I haven't taken it to the track. I don't want to embarrass myself, lol.
    That's about all it has is HCI. Mac headers, BBK OR H-pipe, SLP cat back. UD pulleys, CAI.
    Really needs gears and a tune badly. Thinking about 3.73s at least...

    Bolt ons work well with the 5.0 BUT the SNs are so heavy it kinda negates the gains. I'd do them because they're cheap but if you're doing heads anyway I'd throw a good cam in it while you're at it. The main thing is suspension, gears, stall converter and shift kit. You should hit high 13's with a good setup pretty easily.
     
  7. white95

    white95 Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

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    Throw a S-trim at it and do work..
     
  8. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    If I put 410s in with the aode would I have shifting issues? I have some sitting in my trunk and thats the only reason I havent put them in yet..

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  9. white95

    white95 Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

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    Nope, it will shift just fine and it will finally feel like it's balls dropped too. How many miles are on the car?

    You can do any of these upgrades for under $300:

    1] 1.7 roller rockers

    2] Get good cold air intake [I prefer an Anderson Ford Power Pipe but its your choice]

    3] B&M Shift kit

    4] Moates QuarterMaster chip [then contact Addermk2 for a tune]

    5] adjustable fuel pressure regulator

    6] tubular rear control arms

    7] Eibach drag springs

    You can do any of these upgrades for under $500:

    1] Headers [these can be hadf much cheaper if bought used, but YGWYPF]

    2] H/X pipe

    3] Gear swap [go ahead and rebuilt the differential and axle bearings while youre at it]

    4] upgraded stall convertor

    5] 90/10 drag struts / 70/30 Drag struts

    What you can do *before* going to the track

    1] remove passenger seat, back seat, jack, spare tire, door panels, center console and anything else you can remove

    2] Borrow [or buy] some skinnies and drag radials

    3] This is fun.. Find a spot you can peel out and inspect the black marks. WTF? Yes, I'm SERIOUS!!! You wanna see a consistant "patch" that will indicate proper air pressure. Too much air psi will leave a darker in the middle mark and too little psi will be darker on the edges. Without proper traction, this is all pointless.

    4] remove the "dogbone" from the rear end

    5] Figure out what RPM you can "brake torque" to without spinning the tires. You want to load the suspension without moving the car at the starting line.

    Now... The "free" way to go faster at the track:

    1] perform the vaunted 5 minute tune up

    a] fuel up with some 93 [no more than a half of a tank] and with a timing light, bump the timing to 12*-14* advance
    b] swap out the stock 195* thermostat for a 160* unit
    c] install a short belt to bypass the a/c, power steering and smog pumps [if its still there]
    d] disconnect and/or remove the front sway bar for better weight transfer and/or weight savings

    2] Keep your seat in an upright and other wise straight position. You want the steering wheel to be at your wrists [with your arms extended] and your leg to be bent with it resting on the gas pedal. This is the optimal driving position to control the car,

    3] contact [MENTION=10730]duff daddy[/MENTION] or Musturd for more advice beyond this!!!
     
  10. white95

    white95 Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

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    i think...
     
  11. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    Thanks for some info, How much harder would 410s pull over 355s? I plan on running nitrous in the future and im not sure if a 100 or even a 75 shot would be too much for a mostly street setup with 410s... i dont want to be burnin rubber up and down the track haha. And to get some opinions, which do yall all think i should do first? A gt40 heads and intake swap or 410s/355s? both are around the same price and seem to offer the best bang for the buck. BTW,
    I have and O/R X pipe, and short belt that bypassed the power steering. Ive also taken all the smog crap out and the compressor.
     
  12. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    and theres over 100xxx miles... it stopped counting after that...
     
  13. Caboose302

    Caboose302 Well-Known Member

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    It's a noticeable difference. My buddy has 3.55s in his 03 and I have 4.10a in my 96 and he likes mine more. It took me some time to get used to but I like them, you just have to be smart with the throttle and not just mash it.
    If you had a 5-speed, I'd say do the heads. In an auto, I'd say do the gears. But there are other here with more experience that may chime in as well.
    As long as you aren't hitting the nitrous right off the line you'll be fine. Just make sure you don't cut corners with the nitrous.
    And really the compressor delete is a waste unless you're trying to lose weight, but even then it's only going to be 30/40 lbs if you remove the entire system.And besides, you said it's going to be a DD. It's really just another idler pulley... Unless you're rocking the AC down the track, lol.
     
  14. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    I honestly don't think it can be done.

    A total factory freak with maybe pulleys and a full exhaust *MAY* get you to the 215rwhp mark. Gears, tires, and a HUGE diet. Just by a simple 1/4 mile calculator you'd have to be at 2900lbs with you in it @ 215rwhp. It's simple power to weight, find out the power, then you know what you have to weigh. Every 15hp less is about a 200lb less in weight.

    That's in a perfect scenario with perfect traction, shifting, sea level altitude, etc. So there are a lot of variables, and they all work against you.

    But the only way to know, is to do it. Get out there! I got my race car to 2980 with me in it, and that bioootch was STRIPPED!!!
     
  15. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    Haha, thanks for thw comments guys! Ya, I took the smog stuff out to clean up the engine bay and make spark plugs easier to change. Im thinking about the A/C next but not sure yet! I know ots not that much weight.. I just like the way engines look under the hood and theres nothing else in there :D this is actually my first car with working AC so im used to not having it! Anyways.. Thanks for the info guys because Im oredering the install kit tonight for the gears!

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  16. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    In the future im planning on taking all my back seats out so you can see in to the trunk and painting it all black, I did that with my project f150
    And it looks bad ass. Ive seen some cobras at car shows that have done it too. Also I want a new k member but not sure if they are good for the street, what do yall think?
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  17. Caboose302

    Caboose302 Well-Known Member

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    Why wouldn't they be good for the street? And you might want to get a clutch pack for the trac-loc while you're at it.
     
  18. Musturd

    Musturd Legend

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    [MENTION=10188]white95[/MENTION] has some good points ... Basically though with a stock aode and stock converter it will be hard . When you gotta a manual you can get shit done a lot easier .dont fear the gear or the nitrous , I'd run long tubes and start helping that choked out top end breathe . I've got these bolt on cars into 13's never with the auto , the yellow car was auto at one point but would go 14.00-14.2 as soon as I manual swapped it 13's were easy. Get yourself a nice wet nitrous kit and go have some fun. If you wanna do this shit on the cheap moroso trick springs and 90/10's to help the weight transfer
     
  19. white95

    white95 Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

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    If you yank out perfectly fine a/c components, send them to me haha
     
  20. test-tube-baby

    test-tube-baby New Member

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    If youre willing to buy them white, I might be a little more motivated to rip them out :) and about the k member, im not really sure why they wouldnt be good for street, I just see on a lot of them things like not recomended for street or track only.. And thanks agian for all the ideas, as soon as I finish typing this im going to start replacing my gead gasket then gears will be ordered soon! Merry Christmas yall from Houston!

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