'94 5.0 Fresh out of the shop, couple questions!

StratsRule07

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This is my first post here, or any Mustang forum for that matter. Just had my rear end rebuilt with 3.73 gears, King Cobra Clutch installed, and put in an American Muscle Short Shifter. The shifter is AMAZING compared to stock, couldn't believe how well it performs after reading all the mediocre reviews. Definitely not as good as a Steeda or MGW, but easily worth the money.

That is neither here nor there, but I do have a couple of questions. I assumed my mechanic was going to, in some way, recalibrate my speedo for me. Unfortunately, this wasn't the case and I now have a speedo that is WAY off. Will the Ford Racing Speedometer Calibrator on American Muscle work to recalibrate my speedo? I have done my fair share of wiring so the install wouldn't be an issue.

Lastly, my seats are motorized and will not move forward or backward. I'm guessing they are just off the rails. Anyone else had this issue that could give me a ballpark figure on what repair costs would be? If it's going to be outrageous I'm not against leaving the seat as is!

This '94 GT has been my first real adventure into car scene and it has been great thus far. I've been riding offroad and on two wheels for several years, but with bike insurance costs being so high and having 4000lb torpedos flying at me all day...you get the picture. Pretty familiar with the ins and outs of engines, and I don't think I could have picked a better platform to start with than the 5.0. My mods so far are the 3.73 rear end, King Cobra Clutch, Short Shifter, BBK Shorties, Off-road H, Flowmaster 40's, TFS Stage 1 cam/ springs, SCT Chip/Custom Tune, K&N Filter, 17" Bullitts and some sweet Mich tires. Running Royal Purple in the crankcase and rear end with GM sycnro-mesh in the tranny. Fresh plugs, cap, and wires as well. Car is clean as a whistle and has never been wrecked! High mileage, but well taken care of.

For my next mods, I am either going to gear rear control arms and subframes AND/OR wheels and tires. What is the largest tire I can safely run without rubbing or being unnecessarily big? I would like to stay with 17's, but would like a deep dish in the back. I have seen 315's on the SN95's but I wasn't sure if that was overkill or not. Following the suspension work and wheels and tires, I will either be going with the TrickFlow top end from summit or picking up a used S-trim this summer locally. Any input would be well appreciated!
 

CC'S95GT

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Torpedos? Musta be a squid
Welcome to the site.
How about some pics. sounds like a good list of mods.
 
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StratsRule07

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I'm convinced that some drivers around here have divised a plan to take out all bikers, after several close calls it's just not as fun anymore. I'll get some pictures up when the snow goes away, haven't been able to wash it in a couple weeks due to bad weather and it being in the shop. Where did you get the Bullitts you are running and do you like the 275 on the rear?
 

Win

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Welcome..... I still have my Z1000 and im working on my stang. I went kinda like you did. I installed Full length subframes, 3.73's alum driveshaft, flywheel and a new clutch all at the same time and WOW!.
 
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StratsRule07

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I'll probably pick up an aluminum driveshaft when I get the subframes/control arms. Any idea whether I would be better off going with the 23 tooth speedo gear or the Recalibrator?
 

ivan12

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Dallas mustang sells the speed cal for about $100, the only reason I didn't go with the Ford Racing one was because someone told me that it was a little more hastle to install. I've been under the impression that there is no exact gear that works for 3:73 but it's close, I believe they have them on steeda.com
 

CC'S95GT

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StratsRule07 said:
I'm convinced that some drivers around here have divised a plan to take out all bikers, after several close calls it's just not as fun anymore. I'll get some pictures up when the snow goes away, haven't been able to wash it in a couple weeks due to bad weather and it being in the shop. Where did you get the Bullitts you are running and do you like the 275 on the rear?

the bullitts were on it when I got it. I do wish the rears were deep dish though. You can find them everywhere for cheap. On just about everything too.
I like the 275 on the rear. Nice staggered look. I have even seen some run the 275's on the front and back or with 315 on the rear.
More $ for 315's than I'm willing to pay. LOL
 
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StratsRule07

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Ordered the Calibrator from American Muscle, it should be here tomorrow.

This King Cobra requires a LOT more force when using the clutch. Will it get any easier as time goes on and it breaks in? The cable, quadrant, and bearings were replaced with the install. I'm hoping it's just a little stiff since it hasn't been completely broken in yet!
 

Win

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Really my SVE mongoose is identical to a King Cobra and it feels the same as when i had a stock one in there. It may loosen up a little but not by much. I just used a White gear for my tranny and it went right in granted i have only driven 600 miles since i did everything it worked perfectly. It was dead on with my GPS also.
 
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StratsRule07

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The shop who did my work also installed a firewall adjuster. Can someone walk me through how to adjust where my clutch engages/disengages and also how to reduce free-play in the clutch pedal?
 

Win

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If they installed it i would make them adjust it just so you have proof that if something goes wrong you can hold them liable. They should have adjusted it just fine.
 
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StratsRule07

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They did a great job, I just think there is a little too much free play in the pedal.
 

BOS-94-003

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Welcome to the site. Is there any noise from the seat motor or just silence? Also does, the cig. lighter by the shifter have power?
 
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StratsRule07

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The motor in the seat still works. It will move the seat up and down just not forwards and backwards. It seems to only be loose/off on the left side of the seat, the right is tightly in place. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

Addermk2

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StratsRule07 said:
They did a great job, I just think there is a little too much free play in the pedal.

That, unfortunatly, is one of the major drawbacks to our style of clutch release. If you adjust it too far, as to take out the free play, yu will cause the throw out bearing to always be under pressure. This will cause the TOB to wear out pre-maturely, and with the forward pressure constantly pressing on the components, the crank itself will also be forced forward, which will wear out your thrust bearing in a short amount of time...

ask me how I know....

It would be wise of you to invest in the LDC freeplay kit.
 
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StratsRule07

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I took it back to the shop where I had everything installed and they helped me to adjust it a little bit. It still has freeplay, but not near as much as it did. It was releasing virtually on the floor so I had to have it adjusted out a little bit. It seems to be midway or maybe a TAD higher. Does that sound alright? I hear it would also be wise to switch back to an OEM ford clutch cable. Any truth to this, and do you think it will work with the other UPR components that came with the kit (quadrant, firewall adjuster...)?
 

Slykin

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I've always heard that the stock cable is better.. BUT, i've had a steeda(I believe.. it's not stock) adjustable cable in mine since i've had it and no problems so far. At least 20k miles and some of that is with a fairly heavy spec 1 clutch. I wouldn't worry about it unless your cable is frayed or you're really concerned about breaking down.
 

Mustanger

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Yes the OEM clutch cable is by far the best option. I too had the Steeda adjustable cable & THAT was the source of my stiff impossibly hard clutch! Replaced with OEM from Maximum Motorsports & clutch is like butter now! Read the tech reports at MM on the clutch cables & you will see.

The LDC mod for positive clutch return at Lethal Performance is a very good thing to do...cheap & very effective at not applying pressure on the TOB. Simple & easy to install on the clutch fork.
 
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StratsRule07

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I guess I just need to know if the OEM cable is going to work with the UPR everything else that came with the kit?

I'm going to order an OEM cable if that's the case, along with the LCD mod.
 

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