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Engine Specific Tech
94-04 - V6 Specific
95 3.8 v6 not starting
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<blockquote data-quote="MyLittlePony" data-source="post: 1584241" data-attributes="member: 11359"><p>My cam position sensor threw an actual code. Car ran fine, but the check engine light scared me, so I had autozone scan the code for me. Don’t let any car part chain tell you they can’t run codes for 95s!!! This isn’t so much a problem in 2026, because who honestly would drive something that old, let alone admit to owning one <sarcasm> …but back when my 94 was a 3.8, Id get people like this. They’d swear they couldn’t do it because they didn’t have the tool. They could only scan OBDII. When you tell them that your 3.8 is OBDII, despite being older than 96, they’d still refuse, even after telling them that this location had previously scanned the car successfully before.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, bought a new CPS, and the CEL went away. …but your issue does sound fuel related. Strange that you wouldn’t find a code for that. How’s the connection to the coil pack? Although, if the battery were disconnected at any point, it would clear it, and you would get it again until the car successfully started and ran long enough to trigger it again. Had this happen to me. Same exact issue, but as a 5.0.</p><p></p><p>TFI/ignition module? Could be a good CCRM, but bad connection to the TFI. This tend to fail intermittently however; like you’re driving find for more than one hour, park, then the car won’t start. Wait an hour, then it will start right back up. The TFI needed to cool down, despite the cars engine not overheating. Sometimes if you really hard core drive it, it may actually stall on you, typically on the shoulder of the left lane of a busy highway, or next to a railroad track. These cars LOVE drama!!!</p><p></p><p>Also check the Idle Air Control Valve. When mine went bad, I had about 198,000 miles on it. It ran like crap one day, then died. When I’d start it up, it would run for a few seconds, then die. This continued being an issue, but unplugging the connector to the ICV and back would help it start again, once it began to refuse to start altogether, but not reliably. Replacing it helped with a previous issue it had, where it would die on cold starts, if you attempted to shift into reverse from park, as the RPMs would drop significantly with a bad ICV. Car was already a 5.0 by then, but the part is the same, which is why the ICV had 198k miles on it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MyLittlePony, post: 1584241, member: 11359"] My cam position sensor threw an actual code. Car ran fine, but the check engine light scared me, so I had autozone scan the code for me. Don’t let any car part chain tell you they can’t run codes for 95s!!! This isn’t so much a problem in 2026, because who honestly would drive something that old, let alone admit to owning one <sarcasm> …but back when my 94 was a 3.8, Id get people like this. They’d swear they couldn’t do it because they didn’t have the tool. They could only scan OBDII. When you tell them that your 3.8 is OBDII, despite being older than 96, they’d still refuse, even after telling them that this location had previously scanned the car successfully before. Anyway, bought a new CPS, and the CEL went away. …but your issue does sound fuel related. Strange that you wouldn’t find a code for that. How’s the connection to the coil pack? Although, if the battery were disconnected at any point, it would clear it, and you would get it again until the car successfully started and ran long enough to trigger it again. Had this happen to me. Same exact issue, but as a 5.0. TFI/ignition module? Could be a good CCRM, but bad connection to the TFI. This tend to fail intermittently however; like you’re driving find for more than one hour, park, then the car won’t start. Wait an hour, then it will start right back up. The TFI needed to cool down, despite the cars engine not overheating. Sometimes if you really hard core drive it, it may actually stall on you, typically on the shoulder of the left lane of a busy highway, or next to a railroad track. These cars LOVE drama!!! Also check the Idle Air Control Valve. When mine went bad, I had about 198,000 miles on it. It ran like crap one day, then died. When I’d start it up, it would run for a few seconds, then die. This continued being an issue, but unplugging the connector to the ICV and back would help it start again, once it began to refuse to start altogether, but not reliably. Replacing it helped with a previous issue it had, where it would die on cold starts, if you attempted to shift into reverse from park, as the RPMs would drop significantly with a bad ICV. Car was already a 5.0 by then, but the part is the same, which is why the ICV had 198k miles on it. [/QUOTE]
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95 3.8 v6 not starting
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