96' GT auto to 00' T45 swap

JohnTaper

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This is what I am currently doing to my 96 GT. I just bought the car and it had a 4R70W automatic with no reverse. I found a T45 (I'm assuming) from a guy locally who said it was out of a 2000. I know that 2000 is the changeover year to the T-3650. How can I tell the difference? They look identical don't they? Tag is on this trans so I can get the numbers but I haven't found any kind of decoder online. If anybody can tell me I would greatly appreciate it.

I have taken this engine and trans out and put back over the last 2 weeks but I was just able to borrow a camera. While I had the engine out I replaced oil pan, exhaust manifolds, valve covers, and rear main seals and gaskets. I left the "oil slinger" out. Hopefully it doesn't cause me any problems... DOn't really see why it would because I'm not worried about a little whistling and if that thing wasn't perfectly straight on the crank and not tweaked it would tear the rear main seal to shreds, so I elected to leave it out.

First off, a few pics of the car. The front and rear bumper covers are a little wonky so I'll be making a trip to certifit in Stl here soon enough. Before I get it painted anyways since the clearcoat is gone on the hood, top of fenders, and some parts of sides. But this thing is a California car. I did a CarFax and it's only been in this area for a few years. Rest of the time it was in Cali, which explains why there is NO rust. The tailpipes are disgusting in my opinion. Those will be changed out too to the traditional nice looking ones.

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Creepy Creeper
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Don't know if anybody has tried to swap in a cobra t45 or any other t45 from 99 or newer but the trans mount is different and good luck putting the right crossmember in without welding onto the subframe rails. I decided to modify the stock 96 crossmember and it is not done yet and this is the old bad mount just used to see where I needed to be. This seems like the simplest thing I could think of and it will be strong. 3/8 steel plate about 4" x 5". I cut out the top middle portion of the crossmember and welded this into it. I think it will do just fine. Still have to drill the holes for the mount to go through. I also still have to get a speed calibrator to correct the speedo and whatnot.

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New ford racing 31 spline yoke and a new u-joint because I was there anyway.
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New balljoint
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Already had flowmasters. I'm pretty sure thay are the 40 series. Gonna sound good with my new BBK X pipe. Alot of other freshening up goodies too. All wix filters, borg warner wires, motorcraft platinum plugs, and more, and more.
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My uncle made that desk. Pretty bad ass and suiting that It hosts my mustang parts since he was a big ford guy. I am too. Love my fords but also love my CRX. 4.6 is just too damn easy to work on. THese cars are so easy and fun to work on. I'm a mechanic and after some of the shit I've worked on these things are a blessing. OK, onto the inside. Had to swap in the clutch pedal assembly. I needed a clutch cable anyway so I bought the BBK cable and quadrant setup. No spacers with the quadrant or return spring. Don't know how I feel about that so far. Well, actually I'm pissed. I can't believe they would sell a product that says nothing about spacing or anything. I used a bunch of washers and I think it's crappy that this thing comes like it does.

If you are gonna swap in the pedals might as well just pull the column. It's super easy. Like 6 wiring connectors, 4 nuts and the shaft bolt and it's out. And the interlock cable which I am discarding. I pulled it anyway because I wanted lots of room to repair the harnesses that had an aftermarket alarm cut in-line to multiple wires. I don't want that crap. GOt enough problems with stock anti-theft, let alone half assed splice and butt connectors everywhere. THis was disappointing, I was not happy to find this aftermarket garbage in here. Got her pretty well done up now, a couple more wiring fixes and it will be good to go. By the way if you sell and/or install aftermarket alarms for a living I hate you and your shitty work that you always do.

Horrible alarm out
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somewhat repaired harness. Others were spliced into also, not pictured.
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Quadrant installed, spaced with washers I had to buy to keep it from being all jacked up.
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Yanked the cluster out too since I need to replace the Odometer gear or gears, guess I'll find out.
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Me and a friend of mine made this shifter out of a coolant pipe for a taurus. I put threaded rod through the pipe at the end and threaded on the shifter out of my CRX. Little bending, little JB weld for reinforcement and it will be good till I got the money to buy a whole new shifter setup deal.
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This is a budget build and still hasn't been cheap. If you can't do this work yourself and you're not rich don't even bother doing this type of swap. I still have to get more parts too. I will update with the progress.

Sorry. I'm an idiot. I meant to put this in build ups. I don't see a way to delete this. Could you move it? Sorry.
 

Orange Stang

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now i was told that the 99+ trans use an electric speedo right?
Also, if you swap the cobra T45 or later T45 in a GT, all you need are the cobra crossmember brackets. Very simple. Im in the process of the swap right now.
 
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JohnTaper

JohnTaper

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From what I understand they all are an electronic signal. The 96-98 GT has a mechanical pickup on the trans but still has the same 2 prong electrical plugin. All others use the same electrical connector but use a magnetic pickup with a tone wheel like the crank sensor or wheel speed sensor for the ABS. And on the crossmember brackets you are talking about do those bolt into the brackets that are here and have the place to bolt up the crossmember to in them? I've seen the mount for 2000+ GT's and it looks like it is the whole crossmember with places for 2 bolts on each end that go up. All the info I found was murky and unreliable so I just went ahead and made my own. I found nothing on the crossmember brackets. None, whatsoever. That's why I did it like this.
 

Orange Stang

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Check my build thread. I posted a picture of them. They bolt into the frame and allow you to use the stock ceossmember. It look me a month and a half to find a set though.
 
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JohnTaper

JohnTaper

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Guess I'm going to stick with the auto computer for now, or at least for initial startup. I have a manual transmission computer for the car (GGL3) computer. I need to find out if I can program the key I have as the new master key for the manual computer and if that is all I have to program or if there is other stuff for the. Been a little while since I had access to alldata, mitchell, and identifix. Might have to bite the bullet and get one of them for this vehicle only.

But for now I'll plug in the tranmsmission range switch, which is also the neutral safety switch from what I understand and keep it in neutral and see if it fires. I've also read some stuff on certain running or bogging at certain rpm issued with the auto computer in place with the manual. As long as it goes into closed loop I don't see why there would be an issue. Again this is only temporary as I want to have the manual computer in. I just need the pinouts for the manual and auto pcm to make sure the vss/oss are the same or where I need to put them, reverse lights, and rear O2's(which don't matter anyway). But if anybody has some info on these issues I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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