A little help on my 98's 460

voidfinger · Jan 24, 2008

Hey guys, never been in this section b4 i think... anyway, got some questions.

First off... I'm wanting to do something different in my vert b/c i think the 460 is about dead.
I'm not wanting subs in the trunk or anything i just want some good sounding system that is clear and doesn't die after 4 mins of playing.

Ok so first... i'm not sure if the sizes are different but what are the sizes of the 8 different speakers... 2 door, 2 tweeter "in the corner of the windshield" , and 4 behind the seat.

I'm looking to replace all these with better ones.

I would like to get a good Headunit while i'm at it... i got one but its an alpine with changer so i might use that.. kinda old though but its cool.

I would also like to have like 2, 4 channel ams for the interior speakers... Could that work?

Ok , what watt and name of amps should i go with? Will i be able to use the 460 wiring or no? What brand of speakers? I like the alpine, and infinity speakers... but infinity is $$$.

I had the head unit in the car a while back but the power to the different speakers were all F'ed up... one side was way louder than the other and so forth.. any reason why?

Thanks for any help guys.
Mitchell

Willis_98GT · Mar 2, 2008

not sure about verts. but if you hop on bestbuy.com you can look up what you need as far as sizes. i know my car is 5x7s and 6x9s but because the rear speakers arn't by the rear windshelid i think their smaller

voidfinger · Mar 2, 2008

hmmm i almost forgot i had this one on here lol.

cntchds · Mar 3, 2008

voidfinger said:
I had the head unit in the car a while back but the power to the different speakers were all F'ed up... one side was way louder than the other and so forth.. any reason why?

Thanks for any help guys.
Mitchell

This might seem stupid but... Have you checked the balance side to side? My friend had me check out his car stereo a couple months back because only one side was playing any music. Turned out that the balance had been turned all the way to one side. Just something you should check before you think you're having a major problem. It took the two of us a couple hours to figure that out after checking the wires and fuses and stuff.

voidfinger · Mar 3, 2008

yep that was the first thing i checked... its something to do with the over complicated 460 wiring.

reivaxtorres · Mar 13, 2008

voidfinger said:
yep that was the first thing i checked... its something to do with the over complicated 460 wiring.

tell me about it.

check this site out, it will give you the size info you are looking for:

http://flemworld.com/Mach460/mach.html

CanaryGT · Mar 13, 2008

To get the best out of it, just simply dont screw around with the old 460 stuff and install the new stuff. Get a good Alpine Deck (if you want crazy good a 9887 alpine is da shiz, imo) Either Alpine or Infinity speakers. Watch carefully of the Ohms on the speakers because it will matter on the 4 channel amp you buy. JL and Alpine makes some good amps, so either is good. If you run say Infinity Kapa 5x7 in the back like i am, and there Component kit up front, you can get the alpine amp that does 100 Watts RMS to each channel, cause they are a 2 Ohm speaker. Some assembly will be required...

voidfinger · Mar 14, 2008

Yea I'm thinking i'm just gonna go with a good head unit and then put some Infinity perfects in there. With two 4 channel ams pushing them... so what i'm curious though , i'm like lost on the amp and watt, and ohm crap lol.

CanaryGT · Mar 14, 2008

Its all good man, basically you dont need two 4 channel amps. The ones up front will be component but they come with a box called a cossover. So although you have a woofer and a tweeter, you only have one input which would be powered. Now, that leaves 2 channels left (seeing as two channels are already connected up front). The Rear speakers do not have to be a component set to be honest. You wont see a huge benifit from them so I would just go with a 5x7/6x9 desgin and wire the two up to the AMP. Then thats kinda all there is in terms of the Amps to speaker ratio.

Now, what ohms are is simply a measure of resistance. What you want to do is buy speakers based off of what ohms your amp can put out. MOST amps do 2 and 4 ohm. The difference between them is the speakers that are 2 ohm may cost more but then can handle a "louder" volume.

For example, say I have a 4 channel amp from Alpine that does 100 Watts RMS per Channel @ 2 Ohms.

If you buy the Inifinity speakers that can do a 2 ohm load, then you will be able to get the most out of them because you "married" the two items together (the amp and the speakers)

Take the same Amp, but say you buy speakers that can only do 4 ohms. The specs change because of the resistance and now you may only be able to produce 75 Watts of RMS power.

Does that Help at all?

voidfinger · Mar 14, 2008

yea that helps ... but still kinda fuzzy on the compenent thing lol.

CanaryGT · Mar 15, 2008

basically the whole component thing is the two indepenant speakers like the woofer and the tweeter

voidfinger · Mar 15, 2008

CanaryGT said:
basically the whole component thing is the two indepenant speakers like the woofer and the tweeter

so like in the case of the front... the tweeter and the mid range?

CanaryGT · Mar 15, 2008

Yeps. Cause you would install the tweeter in the stock location as the 460 (Some custom modification is required cause the stock "tweeter" is more like a speaker) and the Midrange or woofer driver would be installed in the door. The crossover was also installed in the door as long as it does not conflict with rolling down the window.

voidfinger · Mar 16, 2008

CanaryGT said:
Yeps. Cause you would install the tweeter in the stock location as the 460 (Some custom modification is required cause the stock "tweeter" is more like a speaker) and the Midrange or woofer driver would be installed in the door. The crossover was also installed in the door as long as it does not conflict with rolling down the window.

o ok so there is no tweeter then just a really small speaker.. do they make those or how do you modifie it to work?

Shocker98GT · Mar 16, 2008

The stock system comprises of a 6x8 midbass in front with a 2" wideband driver, the crossover is around 300hz. If you wanted to replace those and use the stock amps, stick with a solid 6x8 midbass (fyi: there are none aside from maybe the JL XR/ZR drivers) or adapt a good 6.5 in there. Something like the Peerless 2" wideranger (you can get them on madisound.com) or the Aurasound Whisper would fit in the stock spot. They're typically for home audio applications and such but they'd work nicely in our cars. That'd be the quick way to do it, and they're a good step up from the stock stuff. In a convertible I want to say they use 5 1/4" drivers but I'm not positive.

You can fit a good 6.5-7" driver in the doors pretty easily if you make a baffle (doesn't have to be complex, something out of MDF that mimics the stock plastic mount), and a pretty beefy tweeter in the upper housing considering the size of the stock widerange driver. If you ran a component set it'd be pretty easy to implement.