anyone with pro-product fuel rail kit?
- Thread starter d_punch
- Start date
Although I've not used the Pro-products rails you mentioned specifically, I have a few thoughts:
1. Aeromotive rails are very nice pieces with AN O-ring boss ends instead of pipe thread like many other fuel rail manufacturers. This allows for a clean and leak-free installation.
2. Aftermarket fuel rails are only needed in cases where you're exceeding somewhere in the neighborhood of 500+ forced induction rear-wheel-horsepower. Or if you just think they look neato, which is an equally good reason.
3. Keep in mind that sometimes it can be difficult to snake the crossover lines around the distributor on 302 intake manifolds.
I've got Aeromotive rails on two of my cars and really like them.
Paul.
1. Aeromotive rails are very nice pieces with AN O-ring boss ends instead of pipe thread like many other fuel rail manufacturers. This allows for a clean and leak-free installation.
2. Aftermarket fuel rails are only needed in cases where you're exceeding somewhere in the neighborhood of 500+ forced induction rear-wheel-horsepower. Or if you just think they look neato, which is an equally good reason.
3. Keep in mind that sometimes it can be difficult to snake the crossover lines around the distributor on 302 intake manifolds.
I've got Aeromotive rails on two of my cars and really like them.
Paul.
thanks for the repley Paul.
Trust me if i had the funds i would have an entire Aeromotive fuel system, my probnlem is i don't have the funds.
i'm in the processes of install my turbo kit i have the upper intake off, i still have to change the injectors to 42lbs.i firgure while i have to pull the rails why not upgrade.
i would also like to change the stock fuel hoses in the engine bay while i'm at it.
Thanks
Trust me if i had the funds i would have an entire Aeromotive fuel system, my probnlem is i don't have the funds.
i'm in the processes of install my turbo kit i have the upper intake off, i still have to change the injectors to 42lbs.i firgure while i have to pull the rails why not upgrade.
i would also like to change the stock fuel hoses in the engine bay while i'm at it.
Thanks
95 svt cobra
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yeah i changed my fuel lines to braided steel, it wasnt to expensive and a piece of cake swap it def adds to the appearance factor, i would like to do fuel rails eventually but im in the go fast mode right now :thumb: good luck with the turbo build
I got my Aeromotive fuel rails on the Corral for $75 shipped complete with fittings in the ends. You should be able to find some nice used ones for a good price.
Oh, and if you need fittings send me a PM I can probably save you some money because I've still got some left in my garage. I've assembled several fuel systems and know what I'm doing.
You can get adapter fittings that will plug right into the hard lines receptacles where they leave the frame rail into the engine bay. From there you can run braided lines up to the rails. I'm doing this on my coupe and already have everything but the hose. I'm using Earl's Pro-Lite because it's easier to work with than braided stainless and looks neato.
Paul.
Oh, and if you need fittings send me a PM I can probably save you some money because I've still got some left in my garage. I've assembled several fuel systems and know what I'm doing.
You can get adapter fittings that will plug right into the hard lines receptacles where they leave the frame rail into the engine bay. From there you can run braided lines up to the rails. I'm doing this on my coupe and already have everything but the hose. I'm using Earl's Pro-Lite because it's easier to work with than braided stainless and looks neato.
Paul.
thanks for the responses guys.
and Paul since you've don't more than once you won't happen to have a list of fittings and other items one might need to do this.
cause thats what i'm looking for.
to tell you the thruth i'm more of a function over looks type of guys. how it looks is second to how well it performance in my book. so for me the lines don't have to be flashy braided lines. i rather it do the job it needs to do and not hurt my pocket change budget than anything else.
Thanks
Joe
and Paul since you've don't more than once you won't happen to have a list of fittings and other items one might need to do this.
cause thats what i'm looking for.
to tell you the thruth i'm more of a function over looks type of guys. how it looks is second to how well it performance in my book. so for me the lines don't have to be flashy braided lines. i rather it do the job it needs to do and not hurt my pocket change budget than anything else.
Thanks
Joe
If you're a function over looks kind of person, I'd say don't bother changing the rails at all. Your stock fuel lines will run out of steam before the rails do.
The fittings used are based on how you want the rails setup, and your budget.
You can use push-lok fittings which are ugly (IMO) but certainly effective. You can run dual feeds or a single feed. You can run braided stainless or braided nylon (Pro-lite) line. You can attach the regulator to the end of the rail, or remotely. There are a lot of options here.
I run an adapter fitting from the stock hard line to a -8 single feed to the passenger side rail, then crossover to driver side, then attach regulator at the back of the driver side rail, then return line back to an adapter fitting on the OEM return hard line.
I got my latest set of Aeromotive rails on the Corral used for $75 with fittings. I sold some of the fittings for $16, had my friend mill the tops of the rails to clean them up, then had them anodized black along with my FPR.
This is what they look like now:
Keep in mind, although I got stuff used and have a great hookup on fittings, this whole deal still cost me several hundred bucks. Be aware of that before you get started.
Paul.
The fittings used are based on how you want the rails setup, and your budget.
You can use push-lok fittings which are ugly (IMO) but certainly effective. You can run dual feeds or a single feed. You can run braided stainless or braided nylon (Pro-lite) line. You can attach the regulator to the end of the rail, or remotely. There are a lot of options here.
I run an adapter fitting from the stock hard line to a -8 single feed to the passenger side rail, then crossover to driver side, then attach regulator at the back of the driver side rail, then return line back to an adapter fitting on the OEM return hard line.
I got my latest set of Aeromotive rails on the Corral used for $75 with fittings. I sold some of the fittings for $16, had my friend mill the tops of the rails to clean them up, then had them anodized black along with my FPR.
This is what they look like now:
Keep in mind, although I got stuff used and have a great hookup on fittings, this whole deal still cost me several hundred bucks. Be aware of that before you get started.
Paul.
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